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West Chimney, 5.6
Route

West Chimney, 5.6

 
West Chimney, 5.6

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.01510°N / 116.1634°W

Object Title: West Chimney, 5.6

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.6

Number of Pitches: 2

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Marcsoltan

Created/Edited: Apr 19, 2012 / Dec 18, 2013

Object ID: 786388

Hits: 797 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

 
Climbers on West Chimney
 
 
Rappelling the north face
 


The hulk of a rock known as Intersection Rock is without a doubt the most famous formation in all of Joshua Tree National Park. There are numerous routes with varying degrees of difficulty all around this rock. The most prominent feature of the west face is a gaping crack known as west Chimney. This feature runs from the very base all the way to the top of the formation. Considering its low technical difficulty level, it should come as no surprise that it became one of the first routes to be climbed on this rock and in fact in all of Joshua Tree National Park.



Located just to the right of The Flake, west Chimney is about 150 feet long and with a rope long enough it can be climbed in one pitch. Having witnessed a number of difficulties experienced by different parties I am convinced that it is best for this route to be done in two pitches. This way you are always closer to your partner wich makes communication simpler and reduces rope drag. West Chimney is not a pure chimney climb. You will find many features inside the chimney to use as handholds and footholds.




Descent: If you are climbing with two skinny ropes, you can get to the bottom with just one rappel from any one of a number of rap stations on top. If you have just one rope, rap down to Bat Ledge, on the west face, then make another rap to the bottom from there.

Essential Equipment: Standard rack with extra large pieces of protection, slings, and one or two ropes.

Getting There

 
West Face with West Chimney
 
 
Topo of the route
 
 
sunset
 

From the western entrance to Joshua Tree National Park drive on Park Boulevard, formerly known as Quail Springs Road, for about nine miles to a major rock formation called “Intersection Rock.” Intersection Rock is a major landmark on the north side of Quail Springs Road with ample parking for visitors and climbers alike. This rock, true to its name, sit at the cross roads to “Hidden Valley Campground”, Barker Dam Road and the road to “Day use and picnic” area.

Images

Rappelling the north faceClimbers on West ChimneyTopo of the routeWest Chimney on the rightWest Face with West Chimney