100 Yard Wall is a nice little climbing area near the entry into Arches National Park. There are only 3 established climbs on 2 tiers and you can nicely combine 2 climbs into a 2 pitch adventure. The climb "The Doil 5.8" is one of the nicest cracks Arches has to offer and the route is surprisingly clean. Most climbs in Arches are sandy, but this one offers superb quality. Expect about 2-3 hrs for climbing all routes at leisurely pace.
100 Yard Wall is close to the road and access is about 5 min of walk. The wall is seen from the road. There is a morning sun and shade comes in late morning.
The views are spectacular especially towards La Sal Mountains.
The climbing here is not published in many guidebooks and solitude is likely.
100 Yard Wall is located within Arches National park, just outside beautiful town of Moab.
Drive 1.7 miles from Arches Visitor Center and park at the small pullout parking lot. The climbs are on the left side of the road and obvious from the road.
1. The Nutcracker 5.8+ is located on the lower tear on the right side of the cliff. A nice crack, easy to find, good protection, little sandy, which is common for Arches climbing. It starts with a stem, into a finger crack, hand crack and little bit of chimney towards the end. The anchor was a sling around a large boulder. You can either rappel down or continue to the top of the large ledge and walk towards the next tier and continue with 2nd pitch of the climb The Doil. There is a walk off from the ledge above The Nutcracker to the right - very obvious.
2. The Doil 5.8 - The climb is located just above Nutcracker. Again, the climb is easy to identify. The start is easy with stacked up blocks that lead to a crack. Continue up the crack with some back rest on the back wall to anchors. Lovely climbing, clean rock, one of my favorite climbs in Arches. Rappel down.
3. Fledgling 5.4 Another easy to identify climb. Walk on the large ledge above The Nutcracker to the left and look for a large triangular shaped flake close to the wall. The climb is located on its west side. The crux is at the start with a wide section (felt more difficult than 5.4), little slippery and sandy. The quality of rock is not the best, but the climbing gets much easier higher up. There are drilled angle anchors at the top of the flake, the webbing was old and we back it off with a sling. The views from the top of the flake are fantastic. Rappel the route.
You have to pay an entry fee into Arches National Park.
The climbing is on soft sandstone and the rock gets easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs gets damaged. Sometimes you have to wait a few days after heavy rains before you can climb. Please respect the conditions.
Raptor closures: this wall is closed seasonally during nesting times of raptors. The closure appears annually from March 31st until August 31st.
You are not allowed to use white chalk.
See rules of climbing in Arches here.
Any time of the year is fine as long as you respect the raptor closures from March 31st to August 31st. Remember summers are hot in Arches and winters can be cool. We climbed early am of November and enjoyed morning sun.
There is a campground within Arches National Park - it is towards the end of the park. The campground is open year round and you can make advanced reservations. The Devils Garden Campground infoThere are many campground and hotels in Moab area. But keep in mind that this is one of the most touristy destinations in Utah and weekends are busy.