Summitted on the 1st of February in beautiful, nearly calm conditions. This in stark contrast to the intense winds encountered during the previous days at camp one above Plaza Argentina. Descent via Plaza de Mulas was grim - it´s difficult to understand why anyone would choose to ascend the normal route, subjecting themselves to the mind-numbing slog up that terrible, neverending scree slope.
I never even attempted the summit of Aconcagua as I felt dizzy most mornings at the Plaza Argentina basecamp (4200 meters or 13,780 feet). My cervical arthritis flared up and a pinched nerve kept me dizzy most of the time. Even though I did acclimitize well as far as my blood oxygen saturation (%SpO2) was concerned (measured typically 85% to 87%), I never felt 100% good. During my 6 nights stay there at basecamp, I frequently visited the basecamp medical doctor who advised me I was well acclimitized and could ascend higher but was not sure how my cervical arthritis/pinched nerve would react up higher. So, after much debating with myself, I (along with my partner, mdostby) made the difficult decision to end our expedition on Monday, February 7, 2005. Such a difficult decision it was as we have put considerable time, money and effort into our expedition. I thought that by sleeping at higher altitudes I could develop cerebral edema. Mike and I now both feel we made the right decision. "Miguel, your health is first and above everything else," Mike kept telling me. I am very grateful to Mike Ostby (who felt fine all the time) for staying together as a team. I'm very disappointed yes, but I'm safe . Any climber with common sense knows when to turn around and descend. While at high altitudes, making the right decision can be the difference between life and death. On Monday, February 7th,I day hiked to 16,610 ft (a bit beyond Camp 1), and then on Tuesday, February 8th, I day hiked Ibanez Col and walked past it to get a closer view of the South Wall of Aconcagua (from 16,650 ft) and the Lower Horcones Glacier that goes to Plaza Francia.
Cold and tired. 3 days at 5900 is not good for your body. Didn´t summit, but it was worth every step until our turnaround.
Start at 07:15 from Nido De Condores. Quite cold and a bit windy. Arrived at the summit at 16:20. Spent half an hour there. Beautiful views! Back in Nido at 19:30.
Finally got to the summit on my third attempt in 10 months. First attempt failed in bad weather / lack of extra days at Plaza Canada. Second failed at Camp Berlin. Ascended to fast and got slight altitude sickness in Berlin. Descended in 25-30 below snowstorm. Went back to Mendoza and left again the next day for another try. Got to the summit from Nido de Condores.
Great climb! The right side of the Canaleta was covered in snow which made the last 1.5 hours fairly easy. Summitted at 1:56pm on 12/12/04 - 5 minutes on the top was all I got!
Human powered sea-level to summit, and solo
What better way to experience the Andes of Argentina, Chile and Bolivia than to weave though them by mountain bike? Chris Goulet not only hauls along three weeks of supplies through remote high passes, but also his entire high-altitude mountaineering gear and reaches the summit of Cerro Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, and solos Nevado Ojos del Salado, the loftiest active volcano on Earth. Unsponsored and without outside support, he cycles on through surreal landscapes in absolute desert and across vast salt flats. Lots of difficulties await in the steaming tropical rainforest.
His unique equipment and techniques allow dreams to unfold. This account takes you though the epic with the emotions of an explorer: fascination, determination, anxiety, and with the bonus of exhilarating freedom.
On-line trip report posted at:
Excellent fun, climbed with IMG, great outfit. Alistair Sutcliffe.
Had to turn around at 22,000 feet due to partner's disorientation (hypoxia) - amazing mountain with great people. Nido de Condores was one of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen - very tough slogging
Wish it was 40 meters higher!
Weather was great, even at the Windy Crest it was lull!
Although the climb was not difficult at all, I will remember Canaleta - for sure :)
Very windy and very cold, but other than that, weather was very cooperative with us. We were fortunate! Not a single drop of precipitation the entire 19 days! That's not to say that some of us didn't get a little wet!!
The ascent, with three others including William Marler, from high camp at base of Polish Galcier took just under seven hours. It was fair, but cold and windy (when isn't it?).
Dutch expedition HT Wandelreizen 2004 !
In extremely bad weather at the summit at 16.00h: Marianne IJnsen, Angelique Toonen, Jan Midde, John Boers!
A lot of snow on the mountain this season and some strange weather, but we had a near perfect summit day of 8 hours to the top.
Some spectacular views on a beautiful mountain.
Argentina is a great place.
Sander Daems, Alison Guildford, Edward Riches, David Nanfra and Marcel van der Wal of team XSF stood on the summit around 13:30 on January the 9th 2004. for more information check www.xsf.info
It was an exceptionally dry year, thus made the upper mountain and especially the Canaletas tough. I reached summit at 2:00 p.m. At around 22,000 ft the winds just died, making it a memorable summit!
Lisa Madden and Aidan Sayers reached the summit at 16:42, the last people to summit that day as far as we know!
The mymountain team (Domenico, Franco, Mario) as reached the summit the 18.01.2003 at 10.20 AM. See the story and the photos at www.mymountain.ch.
We climbed Aconcagua from December 11-24. We reached the summit on our first try after 7 hours from 'Lower white rocks' camp at about 10:45. It was a day with perfect weather, not too cold, so we stayed about 45 minutes on the top.