Aiguille de la Gandolière

Aiguille de la Gandolière

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 44.97170°N / 6.27750°E
Additional Information Elevation: 10905 ft / 3324 m
Sign the Climber's Log


Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Soreiller group>

Aiguille de la Gandolière is a detached summit on the east side of Tête de la Gandolière . The mountain is dominating Etançons small valley. Aiguille de la Gandolière has a long east ridge, a short west ridge connected to Tête de la Gandolière and 3 faces, the south face, the east south east face and the north face. The rock is a very good granite on the base and not so good gneiss arround the summit. The most popular rock climbing route is situated on the good granite of "Pilier Candau" on the east ridge north side.

Routes overview

Historical route ESE route : PD

E ridge NE side : about 350 Hm to the ridge
Chèze route TD- V+ (1h30 approach, 4h on the route, 3h to the summit on E ridge)
Poulin left route TD- V+ (1h30 approach, 6h on the route)
Rotillon route D+ V (1h30 approach, 6h on the route)
Poulin right route TD- V (1h30 approach, 5h on the route)

E ridge N side : about 350 Hm to the ridge.
Pilier Candau TD- V+
N side of E ridge TD V+

N face : about 400 Hm. Mixed climb for the upper part. Lots of rock falling there due to global warming.

SSW face : D IV+ (3h+4h)
S pilier : D V (3h+7h)

Getting There

by car (highly recommended)

Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> Saint Christophe >> Les Etages >> La bérarde >> Etançons small valley >> Le Plaret route or Châtelleret hut.
For those coming from oversea :
Fly to Lyon international airport. Car (recommended) or train to Grenoble, followed by bus to Bourg d'Oisans and smaller bus up the narrow road to Saint Christophe en Oisans and La Bérarde (3 per day in July/Aug Grenoble to La Bérarde) . Car highly recommended !

Red Tape

No Red Tape except Ecrins National Park rules (no dog, no camping, only bivouak allowed, no fire, no MTB, no destruction of wilderness)
Refer to Ecrins National park rules.

When To Climb

Summer period is the prefered period for rock mountaineering in Ecrins Massif. Due to the low altitude, it's possible to climb until late october, depending on the first snowfall.


Châtelleret hut CAF 2232 m
Access : Saint Christophe en Oisans >>La Bérarde >> Chatelleret valley.
Activities : mountaineering - Rock climbing- Hiking- Ski mountaineering
- Mountaineering routes and summits : Pic nord des Cavales- Gandolière- Râteau- Pic Geny- Têtes N et S du Replat
- High routes : To la Selle hut, l’Alpe de Villar d'Arène, La Grave via Brêche de la Meije
- Ski routes: Brêche de la Meije - col de la Casse Déserte - col du Replat

The hut is guarded some months and weekends:
Spring: usually in April and begining of May
Summer: middle of June to Middle of September
Reservation is mandatory, please contact Gérard Turc:
adress: 5 chemin de la Buissonière - 38860 Les Deux Alpes
phone number :
Hut phone number:

Beds in summer: 70 +20 beds under tent
In winter : 62
The hut belongs to CAF ISERE : 32 avenue Félix Viallet 38000 GRENOBLE
Tél :
Fax :

Chatelleret hut route on


Tél : 04 76 80 23 99
Fax : 04 76 95 47 97
Email :
Site internet:

Tél : 04 76 79 20 45
Fax : 04 7679 06 97
Email :
Site internet:

Mountain Conditions

Briançon meteo forecast 7 days
Bourg d'Oisans meteo forecast 7 days
Grenoble meteo forecast 7 days

Rescue: La Bérarde: 0476 79 51 00 (PGHM)

Maps and books

Guide du Haut Dauphiné, tome 1, ISBN 2 909 907 15 5.
Authors: GHM and François Labande
Editions de l'Envol

Map: IGN Top 25 3336ET