Corno di Cavento 3402 m
Corno di Cavento 3402 m is a great pyramid-shaped peak, belonging to Adamello Group, Subgroup Carè Alto. It’s located between Passo di Cavento and Denti del Folletto, along the ridge running from Carè Alto to Val di Genova and separating the glacier named Vedretta di Lares (East) from upper Val di Fumo and Vedretta della Lobbia ("vedretta" means "small glacier"). The summit is surrounded by the glaciers: Vedretta di Lares to the East and the broad Vedretta della Lobbia to the Northwest.
The peak is particularly majestic when viewed from the Western and Southern sides. In fact the West wall is high and covered by steep icy gullies, giving it an impressive appearance and is cut into two parts by the long WSW ridge. On the contrary, Corno di Cavento Eastern side rises from Vedretta di Lares with a short snowy and rocky slope. It’s just on this side where it’s located the Normal route, virtually the only route nowadays attended to reach this beautiful summit, full of history. The place name Cavento - meaning "home of wind" - refers to the frequent adverse weather of this zone. First summiters: Julius Payer with Coronna, Griesmayer and Haller 1868
You can choose between two different ways to approach Corno di Cavento Normal route, both rather long and starting from Val Rendena: starting from Rifugio Carè Alto or from Rifugio Ai Caduti dell’Adamello. The final part of the climb to the summit from Vedretta di Lares is the same for both itineraries.
Road access to Val Rendena
Coming from Autobrennero exit Trento and take the road to Riva del Garda, reaching the village Le Sarche. Here continue straight toward Tione di Trento.
Road approach to Rifugio Carè Alto - In Tione turn to right and take the SS 239 Val Rendena route towards Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio, reaching Villa Rendena, Vigo Rendena, Pelugo and Borzago. In Borzago leave the main road 239 and take on the left the road entering Val di Borzago (signposts Rifugio Carè Alto), reaching the small hamlet of Case di Fe 1087 m, then Pian della Sega (7 km. from Borzago), where you must park the car (wide parking lot). A gravel road continues up for a few kilometers, but it’s close to private cars.
Road approach to Rifugio Caduti dell’Adamello - In Tione turn to right and take the SS 239 Val Rendena route towards Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio, reaching Villa Rendena, Vigo Rendena, Pelugo, Borzago, Pinzolo and Carisolo. Pass Carisolo 806 m and take on the left the road entering Val di Genova. Follow entirely the road getting to Malga Bedole. In summer the access by private car beyond Ponte Verde - near the Nardis Waterfall - is regulated (toll or public shuttle). More info: Val di Genova
- Rifugio Carè Alto-Dante Ongari 2459 m
Situation: East ridge of Carè Alto, on the side of Val Conca (Val di Borzago) Open: from June 20th to September 20th Size: 82 persons Winter-shelter: 8 persons Owner: SAT Trento Guardian: Marco Bosetti and family Refuge's phone: +39 348 4359097 - +39 340 2943731 Walking approach - From the parking lot Pian della Sega in Val di Borzago (m 1250) take the old mule track through the woods and follow it until the alp Coel di Pelugo 1440 m. (30 minutes) from where it starts the cable car to the refuge. Take the path SAT 213 rising along steep turns, reach a tibetan bridge on a stream (rio Bedù di Pelugo), cross it and rise to the plateau above, traverse left and walk up the large rocky step, getting to the refuge (3,30 hours from Pian della Sega, difference in level 1200 m).
Situation: Western slopes of Lobbia Alta, on the sidelines of Vedretta Mandron. Open: summer from June 20th to September 20th - winter from March 5th to May 1st Size: 100 persons Owner: CAI Brescia Guardian: Romano Bertero Ceschini Phone: +390465502615 Mobile: +393356664234
Walking approach - From Refuge Bedole take the path n. 212 that crossing a stream (rio Ronchina) rises with many hairpins reaching Crozzetti 2253 m, the junction with the "Migotti" path n. 220. Keep left and proceed with less steeply, passing near the old Rifugio Mandron 2429 m and arrive in a few minutes to the new Rifugio Mandron. From here follow the trail No. 236 that skirting the Mandron lakes leads to the foot of the Glacier of Mandrone. Go up the moraine, snow and debris along the left side bank of the glacier until around 2800 m, where you turn left (signposts Rifugio Lobbia Alta), crossing the glacier to SE and reaching the refuge.
Summit altitude: m 3402 - Difficulty: Alpine F - Difference in level: 1000 m - Exposure: East - Hut: Rifugio Carè Alto m 2459
Beautiful and very panoramic route that reaches the summit along the easy SE ridge, after crossing the Vedretta di Lares, which involves the use of glacier gear.
From Rifugio Carè Alto - Dante Ongari take the path n. 215 starting just behind the building and descending the rock staircase of “Bus del Gat”. The good path stars to cross the basin below Vedretta di Niscli and soon gets a stream, the Rio Bedù.
A characteristic cable bridge allows to cross the stream. The trail continues to rise up the valley along the moraine reaching Sasso Bagnato, where there is a junction.
The main trail goes right to Passo Altar, we keep the left and continue up a moraine ridge reaching Pozzoni rocky band overlooking the small namesake lakes and Sella di Niscli 2912 m. (signposts).
Soon you reach the beginning of the glacier (Vedretta di Lares); rope up and start climbing the glacier Westward, at first more gently, then more steeply already in sight of Denti del Folletto and rightmost Corno di Cavento. At a certain point the itinerary turns to right, reaching a light hollow near Denti del Folletto.
Continue to skirt these bizarre rocky teeth, finally reaching the base of Corno di Cavento SE side. Climb up snow cones (earlier in the season) and easy granite boulders, getting the entrance of the war cave. Head slanting left, getting quickly the beautiful summit.
Descent: reversing the route
Summit altitude: m 3402 - Difficulty: Alpine F - Difference in level: 400 m - Exposure: East - Hut: Rifugio ai Caduti dell'Adamello m 3040
The final part of this itinerary, the South Ridge, is in common with the itinerary from the Rifugio Carè Alto described above and does not involve any technical difficulties, as it's an ascent on easy granite backbone and snow-fields. The mountaineering character of the itinerary is given by the crossing of the Ghiacciaio della Lobbia and Ghiacciaio di Lares and by the crossing of Passo di Cavento, which is however well marked and served by ropes.
Route report - From Rifugio Ai Caduti dell'Adamello climb up to Passo della Lobbia and descend briefly to reach the Vedretta della Lobbia. Cross the glacier downhill towards SSE, losing about 100 m in altitude and getting the Passo di Val di Fumo 2939 m (crevasses). From the pass the route continues to the SE and heads to Passo di Cavento 3198 m, an obvious notch between Corno di Cavento and Punta Calvi, where it's situated the Bivacco Laeng. By an easy climbing, well marked and helped by fixed ropes, the route gets the pass, located to the left of a rocky pinnacle. Once reached the col downclimb on the opposite side, always aided by metal ropes and cables, to get the Vedretta di Lares, which must be crossed diagonally to the south. Once on the glacier (crevices) the route crosses almost flat under the NE slope of Corno di Cavento and then bypassing a spur gets the South-East crest. Now climb up on snow fields, debris and granite boulders, as for the previous route, to get the War Cave and the summit.
Descent: reversing the route
Full glacier gear: rope, ice-axe, crampons
No fees no permits needed and no particular restriction in climbing and hiking. Corno di Cavento is located within Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena. Pay attention to the accessibility of Val di Genova road (usually closed to private cars from 9 to 18).
Adamello Group was one of the main mountain ranges of the Alps where it was fought the WWI between the Italian and Austrian troops; in fact, the ancient border between the countries ran along this chain. In particular the summit of Corno di Cavento was the scene of bloody battles and heroic deeds by Austrian and Italian soldiers during the war.
It has become legendary the Lieutenant Felix Hecht, the Austrian commander fallen in battle during the capitulation of the summit at the hands of Italian troups. Impressive ruins are located on the mountain near the summit, among these latter the Austrian war cave. The existence of the tunnel built by the Austro-Hungarian Empire was known, but its discovery dates back only a few years ago. After the end of the war the cave was visited by recovering of war material, but later it filled up with ice and snow, that sealed it for many years.
Only after the hot summer of 2003 and during the following years the thickness of the inner ice decreased, allowing the entrance in the cave. It was carried out a restoration project, during which specimens of all kinds were found exactly as they were left almost a hundred years ago, after the descent of the last Italian soldiers who occupied the cave. Hundreds of war relics were recovered and cataloged. With a development of some tens of meters the cave housed about 40 soldiers, with straw mattresses for the night, a rudimentary kitchen, a comfortable small room for officers, an office bays for logistics and services. This strategic location was repeatedly lost and regained by Austrians and Italians and was then inhabited several times under different flags. The cave of Corno di Cavento represents an exceptional war testimony. Since summer 2011, the cave was made accessible with guided tours, organized by Società Alpinisti Tridentini (S.A.T.) by reservation. More historical info: Lo Scarpone - CAI Trentino Grande Guerra Società degli Alpinisti Tridentini - Via Manci, 57 - 38100 Trento Phone: +39 0461 981871 firstname.lastname@example.org | www.sat.tn.it
Best season goes from June to September
"Adamello Vol. I - Pericle Sacchi Collana Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI
"Adamello - Presanella" - Tabacco scala 1:25000 "Adamello, Val di Fumo, Val di Genova" - Kompass n. 638 "Adamello - Presanella" - 4LAND Alpine Cartography n. 138 1:25.000