The Davis-Holland route, named for Dan Davis and John Holland, who did the first ascent in 1965, was the first route on the Upper Town Wall and remains the area classic. At 5.10b/c it remains accessible to weekend cragers and offers three pitches of excellent climbing followed by three pitches of brushy, class 3-5 god knows what. Most choose to rappel from the end of the third pitch or continue up Lovin’ Arms 5.11b (5.10c A0), which begins at the end of the third pitch of the Davis-Holland and continues to the top of the wall.
Follow the directions on the main page to the parking lot for the lower town wall, and then walk up over the railroad tracks. Instead of following the trail to the Lower Town Wall, head right along the tracks until a trail cuts off to the left, this will take you to the tunnel area. From there follow a trail to the right. There are a number of trails/boot-paths that diverge from the main Upper Wall trail, but if you consistently take the right-hand fork you should arrive almost precisely at the base of the Davis-Holland (the first pitch is clearly visible just to your left once you hit the Upper Wall)
Pitch 1 - 5.9, scramble up a slightly dirty ramp (low fifth) to the base of a right-facing corner. This pitch felt on the tougher side of the Index 5.9s, with cruxes much more difficult than those found on Toxic Shock or Roger’s Corner, but the rest stances were the saving grace. Once you top out of the corner follow ledges right and then back left to a set of anchors at the base of a steep right-facing corner that is almost directly above the first pitch.
Myself leading the first pitch of the Davis-Holland
Second pitch, top anchors just out of sight
Pitch 2 - 5.10a, one of the best climbs at the grade you’ll find anywhere. The corner undulates upward on perfect white granite, the crux moves are clearing each bulge.
Pitch 3 - 5.10b/c, from the hanging belay at the end of the second pitch, either pull the roof above you to the right or traverse left past a bolt on tricky face holds, either variation leads to easier climbing, followed by an interesting chimney and the crux of the pitch, a couple thin moves to jugs and then an odd series of incut pockets.
Pitch 4-6 - traverse down and left on a treed ledge and then back up through a series of chimneys, some bad bolts may be encountered.
Alternate Finish - Lovin’ Arms
Pitch 1 - 5.10, from the ledge at the top of the third pitch of Davis-Holland, climb up through a mossy section to a left-leaning hand crack, awkward and funky moves throughout, and then an easier chimney section with a belay at a small ledge.
The first pitch of Lovin' Arms
Very near the finish of the second pitch of Lovin' Arms.
Pitch 2 - 5.11b (5.10c A0), traverse right across the chimney and then climb up past a bolt to a diagonal crack, pulling on the bolt is the difference between 5.11b and 5.10c A0, from there follow cracks first left and then right to a sizable, slightly sloping ledge, this section is slightly runout.
Pitch 3 - 5.9ish PG, make something of the quartzite face above you, going far to the left may be the easiest variation, but this is unverified; beware the finger crack on the right, it is not a finger crack, while protection is scarce, going straight up the face is easier than it looks.
Standard trad rack to 3”, with an emphasis on the small sizes, as the cruxes take mostly gear under .75. Sewing up the second pitch of the Davis-Holland requires about six .75 (green) C4s, or similarly sizes pieces, if you are comfortable at the grade you can get away with half that many.
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