This pleasant route is possibly the longest on Hillbilly Rock as it traces its way up the south (left) edge of the rock. This route has also been rated as "classic
" by Gerry Roach in his Flatirons guide. Although only three pitches, this route feels much larger. Peering off the edge as you ascend plus the unique vantage point all add up to a unique experience.
Follow the approach directions on the main page
to get to the east face. The beginning of this route begins on the south (left) side of the rock at the base of a secondary piece of rock that leans up against Hillbilly. Stroll over to the lowest part and rope up.
Almost to the base of P1
P1 (5.2) - Follow the rock up (steeper than many other 5.2s nearby) past a notch, until you reach a higher notch where the slab intersects the actual east face of Hillbilly Rock.
P2 (5.2R) - Take a few steps up and look for a place to step right up onto the east face of Hillbilly. The rock is steep and runout here and feels harder than other similar routes of this grade. The first piece of gear is high above you so take a breath and climb. After approx. 130 feet, start looking for a small ledge to belay on.
P3 (4th Class) - From here simply run it out up the much easier slab to the summit. You can choose whether to break left and stay on the true edge or climb a more exciting rib that is higher. The rib feels like the edge and I believe is the intended route.
|Looking up P2. He is about halfway. |
|Looking down the easier terrain of P3 from the summit.
Sling a large block and make a 60-foot rappel to the north. Follow a faint path down the north side of the rock and down to the Mesa Trail.
A typical Flatiron rack.
- We carried a small rack of nuts, hexes and a few tricams. The few places for protection all took passive pieces well.
- A 60M works perfectly.
- Steep approach = thirsty climbers!
- Trudging through poison ivy may be unavoidable certain times of the year.