This peak, whose Italian name is Punta di Finale, is located about 2 km WNW of the Similaun Hut on the Italian-Austrian border. At 3516 m. (11,536 ft.), it is not as high as Similaun or Weiskugel or the Wildspitz, but is still one of the higher peaks in the immediate area. It has a fine sharp triangular appearance when seen from the general area of the Hauslapjoch (east and and northeast of the peak). It is the closest peak of any size to the site where the "iceman" was discovered, as described in the personal account below. The summit can also be approached by its southern ridge; while I did not travel this route I met a least one climber who came this way. The north face I believe offers a steep, though not long, ice climbing route.
From the summit the climber obtains superb views of Similaun to the east , Weiskugel to the west, and farther away, the Wildspitze to the north. Closer to the north and north east the slightly lower peaks of the ridge extending from Hauslapkogel to Kreutzspitz are visible on a good day. These peaks are easily climbed from the Martin Busch Haus.
From the north: The nearest town to the north is Vent, 1896 m., which can be reached by bus. There is a trail up from Vent past the Martin Busch Haus (2501m.) to the Similaun Hut at 3019m.
From the south: There is a trail up from the Italian side and there is a chair lift, both arriving at the Similaun Hut.
From the Similaun Hut: There is a trail along the ridge, the international boundary actually, to the "iceman" monument. From there it is a short and not a difficult climb to the Hauslapjoch (3259m.) from which one can see the peak clearly if the weather is good. This view will reveal the straight forward route across the snowfield to the base of a rock ridge leading up to the summit. My experience is described more fully in my trip report.
Look at the the excellent Similaun SummitPost site for a more complete description on how to approach the peak and how long these approaches are likely to take.
Fineilspitz, Similaun, the Similaun Hut, and the Martin Busch Haus are all shown on the Weiskugel map (in the Oetztaler Alpen series) of the superb Alpenvereinskarte cartographic publications.
No permits are required. There are regulations and beyond regulations there are, of course, matters of local ettiquette.
When To Climb
Most people will climb this in summer, from late June into September. The weather is probably the best in August. In the spring skiing is possible.
Most people stay either at the Similaun Hut or at the Martin Busch Haus at 2501m farther down the valley toward Vent. It would be a very long hike to climb this peak all the way from Vent in one day. I recommend that climbers stay in either of the two huts, where the accomodations are good and relatively inexpensive. The Similaun Hut was rather crowded on the weekend I was there. One should be a member of the Austrian Alpine Club to have priority at the huts and to obtain a better price.
There are number of mountain web-cams in Austria, but I do not recall one at the Similaun Hut or any anywhere else nearby.
History and Miscellaneous Info
This peak was first climbed in the 19th century, about 1860. I believe one of the first ascenders was a man named Gstrein, which is a family name in this area. (I stayed at Haus Gstein, run by Erich Gstrein, in Untergurgl, in the next valley to the east.) If any one has more information one the history of the first ascent, please send it to me and I will include it.
This peak is sometimes spelled Finailspitz.
Mathias Zehring - Jun 8, 2003 2:58 am - Voted 10/10Untitled Comment
the first known ascent of the Fineilspitze was done by Franz Senn (the local preast and one of the founders of the german/austrian alpine club) with his guide Cyprian Granbichler and mule drover Josef Gstrein on September 8th 1865.
name: the official name in the austrian map is "Fineilspitze". Old sources have the mountain with "a" as Finailspitze. As a dialect form austrians tend to convert their mountains from feminin (Spitze) to masculin (Spitz) so you can sometimes read "Fineilspitz". But I suggest taking "Fineilspitze" and giving in addition the italian name as Chandra suggested
map: by clicking on http.//www.austrianmap.at you can easily search for the mountain and obtain a detailed map
Best map to buy is Alpenvereinskarte 1:25000 Nr. 30/2 Oetztaler Alpen, Weisskugel, available at DAV lifeAlpin, as linked
Troll - May 12, 2008 11:32 am - Voted 5/10Wrong name
Should be FinEil Sp. I had problem to find this mountain. :-(
Tugrul - Jul 24, 2020 4:48 am - Hasn't votedMountain Cam
There is a livecam at the Tisenjoch https://www.bergfex.com/sommer/vent/webcams/c15233/?date=2020-07-22