Geographical structure: Eastern Alps
> Julian Alps
> Martuljek group
Frdamane police is a mountain, which leads in the Slovenian most beautiful part called Martuljek group, which is the subgroup of Julian Alps. It is a neighbour of Spik
which is the king of Martuljek group. As a mountain group Martuljek is certainly the most beautiful one in Julian Alps. Exhibited just above the main valley of Sava river it represents an ideal of a mountain harmony. Peaks in Martuljek group are very wild. Julian Alps are for decades almost entirely explored and on many peaks marked paths lead. But not in Martuljek. Although being the closest to renown tourist resorts, among high peaks only on Spik
a marked path leads (and on Skrlatica
and Dolkova Shpica, which are not in a narrow Martuljek group).
From north, Martuljek group looks like a broad, slightly curved crest of wild, rugged peaks. This range starts on NE with Vrtaski vrh, 1898m, continues towards W-SW over Sleme, 2077m and reaches the sharp Kukova spica
, 2427m, with which a beautiful half circle of high mountains starts. Skrnatarica
, 2448m, Dovski kriz
, 2542m, Veliki Oltar
, 2621m and from this one in a NW direction Velika Ponca
, 2602m, Mala Ponca, 2502m, Spik
, 2472m, Frdamane Police, 2284m, Rusica
, 2074m. In front of this ridge leads a very hard approachable mountain called Siroka pec. It is nice seen with its steep N face from Gozd Martuljek.
Frdamane police is an average mountain in Martuljek group about the difficulty of approach. A normal route is ascent of UIAA I and it is not very hard for good climber. For the ascent over normal route you must come to called valley Krnica and start ascent in this valley from west side.
Frdamane police has a beautiful north face, which is one of the hardest faces in Slovenia. But a lot of people which are driving in Sava valley and from village Gozd Martuljek are watching Martuljek group from the north they don’t see Frdamane police because the most attractive is Spik and its famous north face.
The north face of Frdamane police is very steep and has problems in all face from foothills to the top. A rock in face is solid and it won’t disappoint you. The routes in north face are long, pretentious and very nice. Foreign climbers first climbed the north face of Frdamane police. The most visited and popular route in north face is famous Schinkova route. But in this face the Slovenians have a lot of hard routes. A lot of routes in north face were climbed by the famous world climber Andrej Stremfelj
and his brother Marko Stremfelj and Francek Knez (which is well known from hard routes in Drei Zinnen/Tre Cime
The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora
resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana
. Starting point for Frdamane police is valley Krnica or village Gozd Martuljek.
If you want to reach Ljubljana by plane check a timetable on the site of Adria Airways
, a national airline.
From Ljubljana buses depart towards Kranjska Gora every 60 minutes.
From Ljubljana trains depart in Kranjska Gora direction quite often but only up to Jesenice town. There you have to change to bus, which come from Ljubljana anyway.
From Ljubljana 84km.
From central Europe via Villach, Austria: Via Karavanke tunnel (around 40km) or Korensko Sedlo pass (around 30km).
From western Europe via Udine, Italy: exit Udine – Villach highway in Tarvisio. Tarvisio – Kranjska Gora – Gozd Martuljek 25km.
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Triglav. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:25000
There is only one not very hard route on the summit of Frdamane police which is called normal route.
There are a lot of hard climbing routes on all faces of Frdamane police.
over Kacji Graben.
Schinkova route, UIAA V, 600m, 5-7h, first ascend by Adolf Biscofberger and Raimund Schinko in year 1933, first Winter ascent by Marjan Manfreda-Marjon and Stane Belak-Srauf.
Poldaceva route, UIAA VI-,A1/V, 600m, 5-7h, solo VI+, first ascent by Stane Belak-Srauf and Boro Krivic.
Alpinistic skiing routes:
West ravine, IV, crossing S4.
South-west face of eastern summit, V-.
South-west face of western summit, V-, from the top S6.
No limitations but Frdamane police leads in Triglavski Narodni park
so you must be kind to the nature and other beauties.
When To Climb
On Frdamane police is the best time for climbing on normal route from May to October.
In north face is the best climbing time when is north face snowless so from July to September. But some routes were climbed in north face also in Winter.
In Winter you can ski in some ravines on west slopes of Frdamane police.
Camping and huts
In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora
, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.
Under the north wall of Spik, north face of Frdamane police and south face of Rusica there is a bivouac (1424 m). The keys are held by Mihaela Oman, Zg. Rute 24, 4282 Gozd-Martuljek, (04) 588-08-65 (Mountaineering Club Gozd Martuljek).
In Krnica valley is not far away Koca v Krnici (hut).
KOCA V KRNICI
hut (1113m) stands on a small meadow in conifer forest on the bottom of Krnica valley. The valley is surrounded by high peaks: Skrlatica (2740m), Razor (2601m) and Prisojnik (2547m). Opening year was 1933. It is open from May 1st till October 31st, while outside that frame during weekends and holidays. It has 20 beds, water and power from a generator.
Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is bellow the Triglav.
You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica
Some weather informatin can also be found here