Geographical structure: Eastern Alps
> Julian Alps
> Martuljek group
Rusica belongs also to Martuljek group which is the subgroup of Julian Alps. As a mountain group Martuljek is certainly the most beautiful one in Julian Alps. Exhibited just above the main valley of Sava river it represents an ideal of a mountain harmony. Peaks in Martuljek group are very wild. Julian Alps are for decades almost entirely explored and on many peaks marked paths lead. But not in Martuljek. Although being the closest to renown tourist resorts, among high peaks only on Spik
(the king of group) a marked path leads (and on Skrlatica
and Dolkova Shpica, which are not in a narrow Martuljek group).
Rusica is the hardest peaks in Martuljek group which is approachable for very good climbers. The easiest route is climbing route of UIAA III-IV.
Rusica leads in the center of the Martuljek group which map you can see here
. From Sava valley from Gozd Martuljek village you can see it on the right of Spik, 2472m and Frdamane police
, 2268m. It leads first on the right if you look it from Gozd Martuljek village in Sava valley.
In fact it is a double peak. One is called Rusica (higher) and on is Rigljica. You can reach Rusica from Rigljica in one hour by ridge which is difficult around II-III and very airy.
Rusica has some very nice climbing routes in its famous and beautiful south face which is very popular for sports climbers in Spring because this face becomes very quickly snowless.
Rusica is a place with a beautiful view. It leads above basin called Pod Srcem on the east, on the south is connected with main ridge of Martuljek group which leads first on Frdamane police then on Spik, on the west are its slopes linked with famous road from Kranjska Gora
to Vrsic pass.
View from Rusica
Rusica is a place with very nice view. From Rusica you see all mountains in Martuljek group which are Kukova spica
, 2427m, Skrnatarica
, 2448m, Dovski kriz
, 2542m, Veliki Oltar
, 2621m, Velika Ponca
, 2602m, Mala Ponca 2501m, Siroka pec, 2497m, Spik
, 2472m and Frdamane police
You see mountains around Vrsic pass which are Prisojnik
, 2547m, Mala Mojstrovka
, 2332m and Slemenova spica
, 1911m and above Tamar valley which are Visoka Rateska ponca
, 2678m and Jalovec
Then you see all Karavanke / Karawanken GROUP
and some the highest peaks in Austria like Hochalmspitze
Travelling by the main valley of Sava River will bring you to Martuljek village. There, where the main road is crossing the river, is the most beautiful view on Martuljek group. Martuljek is also a trailhead for some marked (and non-marked) paths into Martuljek group from north. But they all end beneath high walls and only a few not so hard climbing passages are reserved for expert mountaineers. From north only a few peaks of Martuljek group can be reached by not climbing harder than UIAA 1st or 2nd degree.
Rusica is approachable from Gozd Martuljek village after normal approach. Also for climbing in Rusica`s south face is starting point Gozd Martuljek village.
Kranjska Gora. Community of Kranjska Gora - Tourist map. 1:30000
Julijske Alpe - Vzhodni del (Eastern part). Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000.
Rusica has only one normal approach but this approach is very hard and you must be exprienced climber who can climb around UIAA III-IV.
, UIAA III/II.
Very popular in Rusica is south face. There you will find some nice hard climbing routes. I give some of them.
Direktna smer, V/IV+, 250m, 3-4 hours.
Kustrasta smer, V/IV+, 250m, 3-4 hours.
Lijak, VI+/VI-, 250m, 3-5 hours.
Z ognjem in mecem, VIII-/VII+, 250m.
Za prijateljice, VIII+/VII-, 250m.
No limitations but Rusica leads in Triglavski Narodni park
so you must be kind to the nature and other beauties.
When To Climb
Time for climbing on Rusica is from Spring to the Autumn. In Summer is not very popular because it would be very hot in its slopes, specially if you climb in south face.
I don`t have any information if someone has climbed on it in Winter season but I know that Rusica has some nice ravines in west slopes for alpinistic skiing.
In Sava valley there are many huts and hotels. In Kranjska Gora
, for example hotels: Lek, Larix, Kompas and many family hotels.
Under the north wall of Spik, north face of Frdamane police and south face of Rusica there is a bivouac (1424 m). The keys are held by Mihaela Oman, Zg. Rute 24, 4282 Gozd-Martuljek, (04) 588-08-65 (Mountaineering Club Gozd Martuljek).
Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is bellow the Triglav.
You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica
Some weather informatin can also be found here