French Kiss with Le Pilier des Putains and Pearl Necklace to the right.
This is a nice 40 metres of grade 3 ice that is nicely combined with Quick and Dirty
about 10 metres to the right. This can make for a nice day of ice climbing in a easily accessible area. It can also be used as a warm up for the more challenging Le Pilier des Putains and Pearl Necklace to the immediate right.
Given the fluctuating temperatures in the area and the southern exposure, the ice can vary in temperature and you may find significant dinner plating around the bulges. We found the ice quality improved as the temperatures increased and the sun made its way into the amphitheatre.
The top of French Kiss can be seen through the trees to the left of Quick and Dirty.
From Calgary head south on highway 2 to Fort McLeod. Turn west onto highway 3 follow the signs for Waterton South on Secondary Highway 810. This will take you by the town of Glendon and with some jogs through Hill Springs onto Secondary Highway 800 you will come to Highway 5. Turn West and follow the signs into Waterton Park.
Watch for the signs and turn onto the Cameron Lake Road before the townsite. Follow this for about 3.9 km watching for the obvious ice flow Quick and Dirty
up to your right.
Follow the creek bed on the left for about 10 minutes to the base of the climb. Quick and Dirty
is the obvious flow in the amphitheatre. French Kiss is on the far left.
The upper part of French Kiss.
The route can be done in 2 short pitches or 1 long pitch.
Follow a series of steep steps up for 20 metres. A belay exists in the obvious alcove to the climbers left. You can belay from here or complete the line in one long pitch.
Continue up more of the same ice for 20 metres. The ice kicks back here and you can continue straight up or move left and belay from a tree.
You can traverse to the climbers left and find the ridge from which you can work your way back down to the base through the trees or you can rappel the route from a tree.
Standard ice rack. A second rope is necessary if you plan to rappel from a tree.
There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:
Live The Vision - Ice Conditions