Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Location Lat/Lon: 43.18440°N / 109.653°W
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 31, 2003
A great climb in a great setting. Having brought ice tools it was much more fun ascending the gooseneck icefall, and the ice above the bergschrund than taking the usual route. Not a very difficult climb. Traversed the upper dinwoody glacier to climb Woodrow wilson in the same day from upper titcomb lake. The difficulty is overstated in many trip reports. Took me 4 hours from upper titcomb lake to summit. Also, there is no need to traverse all the way underneath the moraine below the gooseneck pinnacle, halfway up the moraine is a small saddle that can be crossed to the gooseneck glacier by 2nd class scree or fun 4th class rock. From the looks of it I would recommend the north face route (more snow and ice, less scree and talus, less traffic, little more difficult). Unless you are particularly timid, the gooseneck is not worth carrying a rope for.


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markv - Dec 26, 2005 4:58 am - Hasn't voted

Trip Report Comment

4 hours from titcomb lake to summit is superhuman. we took 8 hours up, and got turned back just short of the summit by a blizzard. not that we're fast, but don't anyone head up there expecting 4 hours. plan on 15 roundtrip, and be pleasantly surprised if it's less.

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