Hidden Wall, 5.9-5.12+

Overview/Approach

Wichita Wildlife Refuge is not a sought after climbing destination.  I climbed there six straight days on my first visit in the fall of 2021 and we never ran into another climber.  Hidden Wall takes it one step further.  Although nestled between two of the more popular climbing destinations in the refuge, Crab Eyes and Lost Dome, it sees little attention.  That said, the three routes I climbed on its west face were relatively decent trad routes:  El Primo, 5.9+****, Hidden Corner, 5.9** and Forgotten, 5.10b***.  El Primo is the best moderate hand and finger horizontal crack lead in the refuge.  Hidden Corner is a safe and relatively easy corner crack lead at the grade.  Forgotten offers one of the best tips to finger cracks in the refuge, albeit not a long one.  Wildlife was abundant on the morning we spent at Hidden Wall which is west facing and offers a good morning or afternoon combination with either Crab Eyes or Lost Dome’s routes.  We came across two bull bison, one bull elk (massive rack), a snake protecting the entrance moves to El Primo (therefore how several of the routes were named no doubt) and a giant red headed centipede (“a bite ….usually causes sharp, searing, local pain and swelling….there are individual cases of severe symptoms and injury including kidney failure ….. and heart attack”), resulting in a diverse wildlife day in the refuge. 

Park at the Sunset parking lot or if the gate is closed, just before the gate.  Hike a trail west past bathrooms and across a bridge.  Continue to very nice stone steps (2021) that lead through the Charon Gardens, made up of small oak trees that provide 100% shade. Continue on the trail as it bends south eventually and makes way for Crab Eyes.  Shortly after turning south, look for a trail that crosses a drainage to the west.  Take this trail as it leads further west and look to gain a ridge to the south via scrambling and bushwhacking.  This ridge will lead you to the base of Hidden Wall.  Alternatively, you can hike west from Crab Eyes and Hidden Wall will be the next stone to the west, half way down the hill towards Lost Dome.  Or if at Lost Dome, simply scramble up the hill to the east to the base of Hidden Wall.   Approximately a 30-40 minute approach from the parking area.

Route Descriptions, Left to Right on this West Facing Wall

El Primo- 75’-5.9+****/ Why is it 5.10c is easier in the refuge than 5.9+?  Another stout and fun route for the grade. Stem up to the rightward ascending horizonal at the left end of the formation.  Avoid potential snakes at the start.  Place medium gear and “smear” across the moss covered face.  Pull up into a finger crack in short order.  Climb it to a slab finish.  Single to #2.  Doubles from #.75 to #2.  Medium gear for anchor.  Rap Serpentine when done.  West facing.  Dow

Serpentine- 5.11d****/

Hidden Corner- 60’- 5.9**/ A worthwhile route to combine with El Primo.  Climb the 2^nd (non-bolted) right facing corner to the right of El Primo.  Takes good gear in a corner crack at the grade.  Chossy slab finish below the grade.  Single to #1.  Sling hole and tree for your belay.  Rap Serpentine when done.  West facing.  Dow

Moves Among Serpents- 5.10bX**/

Scary Terry- 5.10c**/

Forgotten- 50’-5.10b***/ In Joshua Tree this short of a finger splitter would not even be developed.  In Wichita, it is a rare finger splitting right leaning crack.  The start and finish are well below grade climbing, therefore just about 25’ of finger crack.  Single to #1.  Gear belay, so double on a few pieces to #1.  West facing.  Dow