Page Type: | Hut/Campground |
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Elevation: | 12582 ft / 3835 m |
The full name of the hut is Capanna Jean Antoine Carrel. It was built in 1968 and is THE property of The Cervino (Matterhorn) Guide Society.
It is situated on Matterhorn's S-W ridge, called Italian or Lion's. It is the only reasonable place to stay on that ridge before going to the summit. The route is rarely chosen, especially when compared to Hörnli ridge on the Swiss side and the crowds you are bound to meet there. Technically it said to be a bit more demanding but offers the best rock on this mountain (though the best here should be by no means mistaken with good).
Due to major rockfalls the hut was not safe in the year 2006, but as far as I know everything is fine now.
The route starts in Italian town Cervinia, not the nicest place. From there 2h walk to Rif. Abruzzi, you can also use a jeep to get there as far as I know. From there, in good condition it is about 5-6h to the hut. For more details please read the report about Italian ridge.
I think the hut had recently some rapairs done, as some things looked pretty fresh last year (2006).
It offers place for 45 climbers, but if necessary more could get inside probably. There are 3 rooms, one with beds, one with kitchen, tables and so on. The last is closed and used only by the guides.
There should be enough blankets for everyone. Thera are 6 stoves in total, there should be gas, but when we were there, the main valve somewhere was probably shut. Anyway it is always wise to have your gas, we had:)
There are also a lot of dishes and plenty of food left by climbers. In summer though, there can be problem with snow for water, as after many hot days with no snawfall there will be only rock outside.
The toilet is in a small storage room on the back of the hut, it is nothing more but a hole in the ground, could be bigger, as some people in the past had obvious problems with aiming (it doesn't sound nice, but a hut info is a hut info).
Sleeping places - 40,
Fee - 15€ (put it in the box on the wall),
Climbing Matterhorn - Italian ridge,
all about - Matterhorn
more info Societa Guide del Cervinio - tel. 0166948149
JScoles - Aug 11, 2016 7:55 am - Voted 9/10
Now OvercrowedThis hut is now normally overcrowded on most days in good weather in August. For example on 08-08-2016 there where over 80 climbers in the hut and after talking to the warden he said this is not unusual and has seen up to 100 trying to stay the night. With that many climbers on the route expect to add at least 2 to 3 hours to your climb as you have to wait at the many choke points for other parties to clear them.