Driving on the road D268 from Solenzara to Col de Bavella, the eye is attracted by a charming dome, in shape of smooth compact slabs. It's Teghie Lisce. Teghie Lisce charming South Face - a jewel inside the outline of climbing in Bavella appears as a true little granite ocean and reminds its huge Yosemite “cousins”, drawning irresistibly the climbers' attention.
Several routes had been realized here, all requiring a hard and engaged climb, except for the route "Invitation au Voyage", the most accessible route of this cliff, a combination of different routes. The rock is extraordinarily solid and offers different climbing ways, from the slabs in sheer adherence to the off-width. Notwithstanding the first pitches running inside a vegetated gully, the trip is exciting...just an unbelievable trip!!!
Access to the island
The magnificent island of Corsica, l'Ile de Beauté (the Island of Beauty) belonging to France but much closer to Italy, can be easily approached by plane (airports both in Bastia on the Eastern coast and Ajaccio on the Western coast)and by ferry-boat from Livorno and Savona italian ports. The most convenient destination in Corsica to visit the Bavella area, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Bastia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Bastia port if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.
Road approach to Col de Bavella
- From BASTIA (Corsica Eastern coast) follow the road RN 198 towards Solenzara; a few kilometers before getting there, turn to right following D268 to Col de Bavella (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From AIACCIO (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow the road D268 to Col de Bavella.
Road access to Teghie Lisce
From Col de Bavella - Follow the road D268 down along NE side (direction Solenzara), reaching the Polischellu Bridge. Parking.
From Solenzara - Follow the road D268 direction Col de Bavella and park the car at Polischellu Bridge, between Bocca di Larone (Larone Pass) and Col de Bavella.
Walking approach to Teghie Lisce
From Polischellu Bridge follow Polischellu stream along its orographical left bank as far as the third waterfall (15 minutes from the bridge). Leave the stream following on your right-hand side a little trail inside the thick vegetation, rising towards a small rocky gully – little cairn – leading to the base of the cliff (45 minutes from Polischellu Bridge).
"Invitation au Voyage" report (French Scale)
Summit altitude: mt. 1025. D+, 6a, 5c obbl. Length: 280 mt. Exposure: SE Approach starting: Road D268 Polischellu Bridge Huts: Gite d’Etape “du Col de Bavella”, Gite d’Etape “Les Aiguilles de Bavella”
L1-L2-L3-L4 First four pitches run inside a ledge rising slanting to the left from the right extremity of the wall. 4b, 3c, 5c, 4a
L5 – The rising ledge ends at a belay with a characteristic big pine below a slabs’ mineral sea. 3b L6 - Turn to right and climb the smooth magnificent slab. 6a L7 - Always slab with a little overhang. 5c
L8 – Now the slabs become steeper. Climb it with superb climb getting to the wonderful summit. 6a.
Descent: abseiling along “Storia d’Acqua i di Luna”. From the top traverse towards right – facing in – skirting a big with some trees (a small lake after rainfall) looking for “Storia d’Acqua i di Luna” last equipped belay. Abseils are truly a wonderful trip along an incredible mineral ocean!!!!
rope 2 x 60, 10 express, ribbons, some friends
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
Bavella is really a fantastic world, a preserved milieu situated inside the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse - Parcu di Corsica. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed. Fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to keep for the future this extraordinary environment.
Teghie Lisce South Face is sometimes very hot. Best season to climb are Spring and Fall.
COL DE BAVELLA
-Auberge du Col de Bavella – Hotel and Gite d’Etape) AUBERGE DU COL DE BAVELLA
-Les Aiguilles de Bavella – Gite d’Etape GITE D'ETAPE LES AIGUILLES DE BAVELLA
–Hotel L’Aiglon, Hotel de la Terrasse -Municipal Camping of Zonza, Camping La Riviere
“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME
"Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella by Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher
“Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
IGN 4253 ET “Aiguilles de Bavella – Solenzara”