The charming South Face of Teghie Lisce - a jewel in the general framework of climbing in the Bavella Massif - overlooks the right-hand side of the road D268. You can clearly see the dome when driving on the road from Solenzara in the direction of the Bavella Pass. This cliff – a true little granite ocean – reminds its huge "Yosemite cousins” and draws irresistibly the climber’s eye. Several routes had been realized here on this face, all requiring a hard and engaged climb, except for the route "Invitation au Voyage", the most accessible climb on Teghie Lisce. The rock is extraordinarily solid and offers different climbing ways, from the slabs in sheer adherence to the off-width.
Road access to Bavella Pass
- From Bastia (Corsica Eastern coast) follow the road RN 198 to Solenzara; less then 1 km. before getting to Solenzara turn to right and follow the road D268 towards Bavella Pass (km. 130 from Bastia).
- From Aiaccio (Corsica Western coast) follow the road RN 196 to Petreto, then the road N852 to Aullene, Quenza and Zonza (km. 90 from Aiaccio). From Zonza follow D268 to Col de Bavella.
Getting to Teghie Lisce from Solenzara
Follow the road D268 and park the car at Polischellu Bridge, between Bocca di Larone (Larone Pass) and Col de Bavella.
Getting to Teghie Lisce from Bavella Pass
Follow the road D268 down along NE side, reaching Polischellu Bridge. Parking.
From Polischellu Bridge follow Polischellu stream along its orographical left bank as far as the third waterfall (15 minutes from the bridge). Leave the stream following on your right-hand side a little trail inside the thick vegetation, rising towards a small rocky gully – little cairn – leading to the base of the cliff (45 minutes from Polischellu Bridge).
Teghie Lisce routes overview from left to right:
"Abbastanza" "Acqua in bocca" "La Marseillaise” 350 m. “Slovak Route” 6c+ “La Porte des Cieux” 6b “Octogènèse” 8a+ “Resurrection des Roses” 7b "Barbier - Biancarelli" 7b max., 6a/b obbl., 150 m.
“Etau e violon” 6c max., 6a obbl., 200 m. “L’equipage” 7b max or A1, 6b obbl., 150 m. “Storia d’Acqua i di Luna” 7c max., 7a obbl., 220 m. "Invitation au Voyage" 6a max, 6a obbl., 200 m. "La Foire aux immortels" 6c max., 6b obbl., 300 m. "Penduleum" 7a max, 6c obbl., 200 m.
Summit with Punta di u Corbu behind
Lunarda seen from Teghie Lisce
Teghie Lisce granite ocean
Descent: abseiling along “Storia d’Acqua i di Luna”. From the top traverse towards right – facing in – crossing the summit slabs with some trees (there is a small pond after the rainfall) looking for “Storia d’Acqua i di Luna” last equipped belay. Abseils are truly a wonderful trip along an incredible mineral ocean!!!!
Nature and climate
Nature is wild and peculiar; in Corsica we can find more than 5% of authoctonous kinds of flower and plants, in addition to authoctonous fauna. On the contrary, several kinds of animal current inside Mediterranean countries are away from Corsica, like squirrels and vipers.
Climate is the typical one of the mediterranean middle-mountain areas situated at these latitudes: often very hot in summer and with cold and snowy winters; early and middle Spring and early Fall are the better seasons to climb. Due to Bavella closeness to the sea, winds are often stronger how much they are at the same height in the Alps. Rainfall sometimes are important and dangerous when joined with strong winds. On the contrary, sometimes we can find some long periods of drought.
Bavella is a well preserved environment, but delicate at the same time, situated inside the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse - Parcu di Corsica. Free camping and bivouac are not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. Maximum care is required to keep for the future this extraordinary environment.
Where to stay
Several opportunities of accomodation on Bavella Col and surroundings.
Teghie Lisce South Face is sometimes very hot. Best seasons to climb areSpring and Fall.
Guidebooks and Maps
“Bavedda – Aiguilles entre ciel et torrents: Escalade, Rando, Canyon” by Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici - FFME “Guide d’escalade en Corse” Vol. I Massif de Bavella Jean Paul Quilici – Bernard Vaucher “Rocca è Sole” Massif de Bavedda by Jean Paul Quilici – Francis Thibaudeau
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