The Gross Glockner is the highest peak of Austria and sometimes called the most beautiful peak of the eastern Alps. The view from the 3798 meter high top is nice, you can see all the mountains of the Hohe Tauern and other mountain ranges. The mountain is climbed all year round and in the summer it can be very crowded.
The most climbed route is the normal route from the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte on the Adlersruhe (3454 meter) to the Kleinglockner through the Glocknerscharte to the Grossglockner.
However there are many routes to the Adlersruhe such as over the Mürtztalersteig (from the Stüdlhütte), over the Hohenwartscharte (from the Salmhütte), over the glaciated Hoffmansweg (from the east side, old Hoffmanshütte, Oberwalderhütte or Frans-Josefs-Höhe) or over the rocky Glocknerkarkamp ridge (Meletzki Grat
) (also from the east). These routes are the popular routes are the popular routes to the Adlersruhe and on to the Grossglockner and can therefore be crowded. A much less climbed and more beautiful route is the Lammerweg or Glocknerkamp ending slightly above the Adlersruhe.
The Lammerweg route starts on the east close to the route to the Glocknerkarkamp (Meletzki grat) but heads towards the more northerly Glocknerkamp ridge. This ridge, broad at first, slowly becomes more narrow. The official rock grade is III+ which seemed an overestimate to me. After reaching a snow saddle in the ridge the route continues in the ice (Lammereis). The ice is steep for the first 300 meters after which it levels off. Continuing up in the ice and later snow the route from the Adlersruhe to the Grossglockner is reached. From there you can follow the normal route up to the Grossglockner or go for a beer at the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte on the Adlersruhe.
The ideal circumstances for the Lammerweg route are in the summer as there is less chance of snow on the rock ridge. To get an idea of the circumstances check the weather report or phone the Hüttenwirt on the Oberwalderhütte (see External links section). The Lammerweg is a beautiful and quiet alternative up to the Grossglockner via the Adlersruhe combining nice climbing on the rock ridge and in the ice of the Kleinglocknerkees (Lammereis). However, it is longer and harder than the other ascents to the Adlersruhe.
All in all this is a nice approach for experienced alpine climbers.
Final rock ridge and start of ice
The Lammerweg or Glocknerkamp route onto the Gross Glockner could be climbed most easily from the old Hoffmanshütte. However this Hütte is now closed and the two alternatives are to start at the Oberwalderhütte or the Frans-Josef Höhe.
The Oberwalderhütte can be reached most easily from the Frans-Josef Höhe. The Frans-Josef Höhe can be reached over the GrossGlockner Hochalpenstrasse (Toll-way) by car or by bus from Zell am See or Heiligenblut. There is free parking space at the Frans-Josef Höhe.
Pasterze route tripods
From the Oberwalderhütte descend to the old Hoffmanshütte and descend to the Pasterze below the Hütte (beware that in the lower part the path can difficult to find and is not well maintained). Cross the Pasterze directly to the start of the routes to the Gross Glockner.
From the Frans-Josef Höhe descend to the Pasterze glacier and cross it following the signs on tripods to the start of the Hoffmansweg (normal route), Meletzki grat (Glocknerkarkamp) and the Lammerweg (Glocknerkamp) to the Gross Glockner.
The time to the start of the route (3 in map) from the Frans-Josef-Höhe is approximately an hour. From the Oberwalderhütte it is approximately 1.5 hours.
Map of Lammerweg (red), Meletzki grat (green) and Hoffmansweg variations (blue). 1:Hoffmanshütte, 2:In direction of Frans-Josefs-Höhe, 3:Start of Lammerweg, 4:Grossglockner, 5:Adlersruhe, 6:Glocknerkamp, 7:Lammereis, 8:Glocknerkarkamp (Meletzki grat), 9:Pasterze, 10:Hoffmanskees
From the end of the Pasterze follow the Steinmaenner (heaps of stones) and signs (red & white paint) which mark the Hoffmansweg and Glocknerkarkamp (Meletzki) routes. At a larger snow field this route goes to the left. However for the Lammerweg you have to cross to the right of the snow field and the stream and go up some slippery and wet rocks.
Lammerweg from Pasterze
From there you can follow the ridge which starts out broad and not so steep. The ridge slowly becomes steeper and more pronounced. The official rock ridge is III+ which seemed an overestimate to me.
As the ridge ends in a small snow saddle (and continuing in the rock seems illogical) the route continues in the ice.
The steepness in the ice/firn is partially at your own discression. If you go more to the left (Meletzki grat side) then it can be steeper and if you go more in the middle and right then it is less steep. Depending on the chosen route the maximum ice steepness can be from 40 degree up to 70 degree. Given the difficulty and steepness of the ice it is not necessary to belay however a fall can have nasty consequences which would make it reassuring to belay.
Continue in the ice and keep to the Meletzki grat side and follow it to the route from the Adlersruhe to the Grossglockner. If going to the Gross Glockner continue on to the Glocknerleitl (a steep firn slope of 35 degree) to the top, if going to the Adlersruhe do not make a short cut from the Meletzki grat to the Adlersruhe as there can be some big crevasses here but go straight to the firn ridge and then back down to the Adlersruhe.
The route to the top goes over snow or firn to the Glocknerleitl and finally over rocks to the Kleinglockner (3783 meter). From there the climb down the Glocknerscharte (3766 meter) and the ascent to the Grossglockner (3798 meter) is a short distance. However often the mountain is so crowded with alpinist that it still can take a long time.
The official time given for the Lammerweg route from its beginning (3) up to the normal route from Adlersruhe to Grossglockner is about 5 to 6 hours. To continue up to the Grossglockner another hour should be added if it is not too crowded. To come back down again from the Grossglockner to the Pasterze glacier would take approximately 3 hours.
good high alpine clothing
ice-axe(s) and crampons
some slings or other protection for belay on ridge
ice screw(s) (if belaying in the ice)
The many images of the Lammerweg on the Gross Glockner are attached below.