The Mayerlrampe is said to be the best ice route on Grossglockner
, and it is indeed a very fine climb. Though harder than Pallavicini-Rinne
, it is less exposed to stone fall (almost none on the ramp itself) and is often unlike the other north-side ascents later in the year (July) still in fairly decent shape.
You either do it in two days and stay in/next to the Bivaouc (see below) or do it in a single push from Franz-Josefs-Höhe. This is recommended only for strong parties. From the Franz-Josefs-Höhe 2362 m/7750 ft cross the Pasterze and ascent to the Glockner-Bivaouc (a metal shelter) at 3205 m (10,515 ft). Count on about 3 hrs. walking. The route up to the bivaouc is crevassed (rope up)!
This bivaouc is the starting point for various routes, among them one of the most popular tours on Grossglockner, the Pallavicini-Rinne, and the also popular Bergler-Rinne and the Mayerlrampe. This results in great popularity of the bivoauc, and it is often crowded. Be prepared to sleep outside (snow cave if possible, e.g.): From here the route up Mayerlrampe starts.
The first ascent was done by the legendary Sepp Mayerl. During quite some time the Mayerlrampe was part of the ice training of the Austrian Mountain Guide courses. Almost all the courses went up, and some, even made a descent.
Altogether a very challenging, but safe climb. One of the best in the Eastern part of the Alps!
First ascent: S. Mayerl, H. Lindner and H. Messner in 1967
Make sure you start early in the morning. When exactly to starts, this depends on the time of year, conditions, the stength of the team, and your own judgement.
From the bivaouc, traverse over to the north face routes. The Mayerlrampe is right of the Bergler-Rinne. Over the bergschrund and a ca. 250 m (820 ft) 40-50° snow couloir you reach the actual Mayerlrampe. What now follows is alpine ice climbing at its best: 5-9 (depending how long your rope is and where you make belays) fine rope lenghts of pure 60-70° ice. You top out in 3660 m (12007 ft) at the Grögerschneid (the Berglerrine also tops out here). Continue the NW ridge (III, a few bolts) to the summit.
If the NW ridge is in bad condition (too much snow, e.g.) or you want to descend for other reasons you can either descend Bergler-Rinne (50-55°), or easier the "Grögerrinne" (40 - 45°) and via Teischnitzkees to the Stüdlhütte.
Descent is usually via Adlersruhe back to the Pasterze glacier and the Franz-Josefs-Höhe.
Essential Gear, Guidebooks and MapsEssential Gear:
- 50-70 m (half or twin) ropes.
- Ice screws, 8 minimum, depending on the length of your rope and level of confidence.
- Ice tools and crampons for 70° ice
- Glacier/crevasse rescue gear
- Cooking gear for the Glockner Bivouac
Map 1:25 000:
Map 1:50 000:
- Glocknergruppe Alpenvereinskarte 40
- Kals - Heiligenblut - Matrei
Freytag & Berndt WK181
- Glockner- und Granatspitzgruppe
To order Freytag & Berndt maps: www.freytagberndt.at
To order the Rother Wanderführer: www.rother.de
To order the Alpenvereinskarte: www.alpenverein.at
External LinksGlockner Bivaouc 3205 m
OeAV Zweig Villach
Schanzgasse 3, A-9500 Villach
Tel: +43 (0) 4242 / 289584
Other useful links:
- Detailed weather forecast for Austria
- Avalance report from the Österreichische Lawinenwarndienste
- Time tables for the postbus
- Time tables for the train
Trip Report Mayerlrampe
- Trip report on Bergtour (update 2010)
Trip Report Mayerlrampe
- Trip report, pictures and information in German