|Lat/Lon:||47.07440°N / 12.69400°E|
|Season:||Spring, Fall, Winter|
|Time Required:||One to two days|
|Difficulty:||AI1-2 (50°, in upper third 55°, at the bergschrund short section might be steeper), UIAA III. Direct variant up to 60°, UIAA II. Alpine D.|
|Number of Pitches:||12|
The most famous ice climb in Austria and parade ice climb of Glockner massif, very impressive. Until early summer often firn, later blank ice. The difficulties are at bergshrund, in the Flaschenhals ("Bottleneck") in the beginning of the climb and in few last pitches. Exit to summit rocky.
Stonefall danger (especially later in the year ) in NE ridge where ice cover is retreating during the morning hours, also from rope teams in the exit of the route and on the normal route. After snowfall acute avalanche danger.
There is no "official" alpine grade, however, Tauernwind guide company grades the route at D and "Hochtouren in Ostalpen" (Scmitt & Pusch) grade it at AD+. The latter feels low, as the route is technically about as difficult as North face of Tour Ronde (D- or AD+ depending on the conditions and source), but has substantially longer approach, the route is much longer and substantially more dangerous.
Effort: Pallavicinirinne from Bergschrund 660m, approach to Biwakscahtel about 1km. Ascent to Biwakschachtel 3h, Pallavicinirinne 4-6h, descent via the normal route to Franz-Josefs-Haus 4-5h.
Best time: Right after the opening of Hochalpenstrasse (mostly start of May).
Route overview: Franz-Josefs-Höhe - Pasterze - Biwakschachtel - Pallavicinirinne - Grossglockner - Adlersruhe (Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte) - Hofmannsweg - Pasterze - Franz-Josefs-Höhe
Starting point is Franz-Josefs-Haus at 2363m. From there take stairs down to Pasterze glacier. Along the glacier curving slightly to the left and climbing to the biwackschachtel (3260m, 8 places, overcrowded on weekends) keeping on the left of rock ridge. There are several crevasses (hidden during the spring and early summer) and slopes are occasionally quite steep (~35°).
The climb can be reached in ¾ hours from Glockner-Biwakschachtel. First along the slope, then slightly descending (crevasses, seracs) below the north face and further to firn field on the foot of Pallavicinirinne.
Cross the bergshrund at a suitable place (usually not too difficult) and climb through narrow couloir ("Flaschenhals") into a widening couloir (50°). Climb up and slightly to the right the narrowing couloir as steepness increases (55°). Around 60-80 meters below the summit ridge to the right in steep (and somewhat loose) rock (II-III) further. There are three bolts on the last snow/ice pitch, then a stand with 2 bolts. Then one pitch (25-30 meter) with 1 bolt to another stand with 2 bolts. From here 20 meters to Glocknerscharte.
-First ascent by A.Pallavicini, J. Tribusser, G. Bäuerle & J.Kramser 18.8.1876.
-First solo ascent (2nd ascent overall) by A. Horeschowsky .7.1924.
-First female ascent (3rd ascent overall) by Maria Zeh & Th. Zeh 8.6.1926.
-First descent (4th ascent) by F.Herrmann 2.5.1929.
-First winter ascent (8th ascent overall) by R. Götz 5.2.1953.
-First ski descent by G.Winter & H.Zacharias 7.8.1961.
-First female ski descent by Ivana Filová, 4.5.2003.
-Public: Bahn (timetable query) nach Zell am See und mit dem Bus weiter zur Franz-Josefs-Hoehe.
-Car: From Zell am See to Fusch and further along Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse to Franz-Josefs-Hoehe. Hochalpenstrasse is pay road.