Glocknerkamp (Meletzkigrat)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 47.07440°N / 12.69400°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Mixed, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Additional Information Difficulty: PD, II, 35°
Sign the Climber's Log

Intro

Information is copied from the main page of Grossglockner: Meletzkigrat (Glocknerkarkamp), PD, II, 35° First ascent of Meletzkigrat by A. Gulden, H. Gulden, H. Mechwart, J. Bernsteiner, A. Lackner & J. Rubitsch 27.7.1892. The route was forgotten long time, until E. Meletzki and G. Hecht used the route again 2.9.1925.

Approach

Below Glocknerkamp, after...
After crossing Pasterza
Climbing Meletzkigrat
DoJo - Climbing Meletzkigrat

Glocknerkamp is also known as Meletzkigrat (Meletzki  Ridge).

You start the tour at the end of Grossglockner road, descend to Pasterza glacier and cross it like on the normal ascent over Hofmannskees. After Hofmannsweg climbs the first rocks and crosses to the Hofmannskees, you decide to take this ridge as a shortcut to Adlersruhe.

Route Description

On the upper part of...
Glocknerkamp in June
The panorama from Glocknerkamp
The view from Glocknerkamp

When Hofmannsweg reaches Hofmannskees you proceed upwards, soon turn back right on the ridge (Gnocknerkamp) and climb over it. Climbing is easy, time to time you choose best passages on the northern and southern side. On the upper part, the ridge becomes steeper (up to some 45 degrees) and you should choose the snow-covered slopes on its southern side (above Hofmannskees). So you reach the upper plateau and cross it in the direction towards Adlersruhe. From there proceed by the usual ascent to the summit.

 


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Essential Gear

We did this ascent back in 1983 with skis on rucksacs. It was June and most of the bottom part of the ridge was free of snow. Ot the upper part snow conditions were perfect, which might not be the case later in summer. For the ascent we needed a snow axe and crampons and for the summit ascent the rope too. On Glocknerkamp stay more or less on the ridge - on more difficult places there are also some bolts. Skiing down over Hofmannskees was then of course a great pleasure.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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DoJo

DoJo - Sep 13, 2006 9:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Route Description + Gear

stay more or less on the ridge (there are some bolts in the difficult parts).

Viewing: 1-1 of 1


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.