Mark’s Arete, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

The local guide mentions this route but does not provide any beta on it as of 2023.  Mark’s Arete is the perfect route to combine with Crack Man, connecting Exit Dome to the true summit of Entrance Dome.  They are right in line with each other.  If climbing at Exit Dome, circumvent the large fin of rock that forms a gully with Exit Dome to the south.  Bushwhack and scramble west and stop when you locate an arete with two bolts spaced relatively close on a sharp part of the arete, about 50’ up, above a wide horizontal dike.  Climb through broken blocks to reach that section of the arete, climb through the bolts and pull a small roof via slab and continue up to a fixed anchor at a comfortable stance.  The 2^nd pitch climbs directly up and then takes the right leaning cracks up and left.  MP.com thought this pitch was 5.9 and I suppose I concur but maybe just for a move.  After the fun steep right leaning crack, the angle eases as you deal with rope drag to the broad ledge between Exit Dome and Entrance Dome.

There are conflicting opinions on the best approach option to Exit Dome routes in the guide and on MP.com.  The best way to approach all of the Exit Dome routes is simply to head into the canyon as you would for Entrance Dome, which means you will be leaving the wash early to start following cairns up and right as though you were heading for the SE facing Entrance Dome routes, i.e., Full Circle.  Approximately 100’ before you reach Full Circle (the base of Entrance Dome’s SE face) traverse left at the top of a gully and follow intermittent cairns (2023) west as you circumvent Entrance Dome.  The trick is not to be sucked to high as you traverse through brush, but also not to lose any elevation.  Eventually several small fins of rock start to protrude.  Gain the top of these slick rock opportunities to avoid brush and make it to a cave like atmosphere created by a very large fin of rock laying at the center of the south face of Exit Dome.  Iron Man, Ladies Man and Sole Man all start here.  There is one bolt line to the east that is Maintenance Man, which is not a worthy route.  Iron Man and Ladies Man share the same fixed rap stations. When climbing Sole Man, which is a three-pitch route, you can rap west into a gully formed by the massive fin below and climb Grain Surgery, JenEric Stain, Trigger Happy and Cave Man which all share the same top rap station with Sole Man.   To reach Mark's Arete, circumvent the large fin of rock that forms a steep gully with Exit Dome, to the south.  Bushwhack and scramble along Exit Dome keeping an eye out for a pair of bolts on a clean arete above a horizonal dike, approximately 50’ up.  This is Mark’s Arete.  This route can very easily be reached from the base of Wasteland Dome as well, maybe in five minutes. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 150’-5.8/ Start up the blocky wide cracks to reach the arete proper.  Climb through the horizontal dike and onto the clean arete.  Climb through two closely placed bolts on the arete and make a slab move at the grade up and left to pull the small slab roof onto lower angled ground.  Continue up to a fixed anchor at a comfortable stance. 

2^nd Pitch- 190’-5.9/ Climb directly up with good gear and then traverse up and left to the right leaning crack above.  Great gear protects the steep traversing finger rail up and right.  The rock angle eases above, run up to sling large boulders at a comfortable place to switch into approach shoes. 

Descent

It is best to continue up and climb Crack Man, 5.10, which offers the best single pitch of climbing on Entrance or Exit Dome.  If you do this, you can walk off of Entrance Dome to the north and make one single rope rap in the bush choked gully between Wasteland Dome and Exit Dome and return to the base of the route.  But you can also walk up and turn right to locate the arch atop Sole Man.  Burrow under it to reach the top rap anchor for Sole Man and make three single 70m rope raps back to the base of Exit Dome. 

Essential Gear

Single rack from micro to #2.  Mix of draws and slings.  Route receives intense afternoon sun.  Rack approach shoes on your harness for either descent option.