Get the Flock Out of Here, 5.10+, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Get the Flock Out of Here is one of the finer moderate classics on the west side of the Cochise Stronghold.  There are other great climbs, i.e. Cragaholic’s Dream on the west side, but when you combine length of route with diversity of the style of climbing, Get the Flock Out of Here is heavily desired and for good reason. It combines the best of sport and trad via four sustained pitches.  The 2^nd pitch is the only pitch that climbs below grade. Although only given two stars in the local guide book (2021), that is typical of how most trad routes are treated in the Stronghold by the sport climbing centric author.  On any given good weather weekend day, you should expect traffic on this route.

The first pitch takes on a relatively easy right facing corner.  Near the top, you must traverse up and left to escape a roof above, which offers a stout crux at the grade, to clip and climb over a bolt to a comfortable belay.  The second pitch is a laid-back (5.7+) bolted pitch that trends up and left on edges and slab.  It runs parallel to Ewephoria.  The third pitch turns a small roof up and right and back left following bolts to another comfortable belay.  The fourth pitch is the “money” pitch as they like to say.  It starts in a right facing off-width corner, requiring hand stacks and chicken wings until it turns to hands.  At the top of this corner, you get an airy traverse out right under a large roof.  Two bolts protect the start of this traverse and you finish with gear options.  The traverse is at the grade, utilizing 5.10 slab foot work as you trend slightly downward to the other end to a semi-hanging fixed rap or gear anchor lower down.  The fifth pitch was the crux of the climb technically, requiring a physical lay back up a slightly overhanging right facing off-hands corner.  Then it traverses left and up steep face climbing to the summit shoulder of Sheepshead.

Do the normal approach trail up to Sheepshead and traverse north to the normal descent gully.  Ascend this gully about half way up.  Look for a short climber’s trail heading right to a shady platform start below a right facing corner with a bolt protecting out right. There is a small roof above with a bolt up and left.  If you are familiar with the routes on Barnyard, this will be the last route before the first of those bolted lines.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 115’-5.10/ MP.com has this pitch at 5.10 and I concur with the grade.  In fact the first pitch has what some could say is the 2^nd or 3^rd crux of the route, when you leave the stacked right facing corners up and left through a bolt.  It requires a unique sequence that needs to be dialed just right. Several bolts and gear.  Fixed rap.

2^nd Pitch- 115’-5.7+/ Follow the left of two bolt lines.  The right bolt line is for Ewephoria.  The last several clips offer sporty slab for the grade.  Fixed rap.  

3^rd Pitch- 125’-5.10+/ Follow the bolts up and right and then back left on the arete.  Fun airy moves, but not at the grade.  Further up you make several slab moves at the grade.  Not as sustained as the final two pitches. Can place a medium piece of gear or two to supplement the bolts.  Fixed rap. 

4^th Pitch- 130’-5.10/ For sport climbers, this will be the crux of the climb, for crack climbers, this will be best pitch by far.  Climb up to the obvious wide right facing corner.  A few chicken wings and stacked hands do wonders until you can get decent hand jams.  You can place a micro piece or two and a #4 as well with a few other medium pieces.  Mantle a stance on top of the corner and traverse right below the roof.  Two bolts protect early and a #.4 protects the finish. Under the roof, you are  essentially slab climbing.  You get some fingers early and a hand at the end, but otherwise it is sort of a slab traverse.  Fixed rap at the base of the next pitch or gear belay in a crack below to be safer for the next lead.  Single from micro to #4 and plenty of shoulder length slings. 

5^th Pitch- 100’-5.10+/ This could be the crux pitch of the day, depending on your strengths.  A tough, slightly overhung, lay-back crack offers some physical climbing.  Once you exit the crack, move left to climb face and slab, you are back to making some slab/face moves at the grade.  Takes you to the top.  Single to #2 and several bolts. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Take the normal descent to return to the base of the climb.  Follow cairns north immediately from where you topped out.

Essential Gear

60m rope, but a 70m can rap from almost any pitch if necessary.  Single from micro to #2 + a #4.  Mix of draws and shoulder length slings. Route faces northwest and receives ample sun during winter afternoons.