Mont Aiguille

Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon: 44.84316°N / 5.55355°E
Elevation: 6843 ft / 2086 m


Mont Aiguille is the most known peak of Vercors even if it is only 2086m high.It has only cliff's route to be climbed.

Vercors is the most West part of the Alps to have summits over 2000m.It's part of Dauphiné region.
It is 60 Km long (N-S) and 40 KM large (W-E) and is like a fortress 1000m higher than valleys.
It is borded by cliff and canyons and has only one easy access on NE side.

Pictures of Mont Aiguille ascent

Lots of pictures of Mont Aiguille


meteo 7 days Bourg d'Oisans

meteo 7 days Grenoble

meteo 7 days Die

first ascents and history

Dauphiné region was bought by France in 1349 by king Philippe VI de Valois.

The first ascent was done in 1492 by Antoine de Ville, seigneur de Dompjulien et de Beaupré (the ascent was ordered by Charles VIII king of France since 1483 and Dauphiné gouvernor before) . S. de Caret and J. Lobret participate to the première.

The second ascend was done the june 16 1834 by Jean Liotard, de Trézanne.

1895 : Première française d'une voie nouvelle sans guide par E. Thorant et H. Chaumat, voie normale de la face Nord ou voie du Sapin mort. La face Nord s'abîmera dans la vallée en 1948.
1919 : Première en solitaire de cette face Nord par J. de Lepiney
1921 : Première hivernale de la voie normale par Dalloz - Tetard - Berger
1922 : Première de la voie des Tubulaires par Lughinbuhl et Zvingelstein.
1950 (janvier) : Première (hivernale) de la voie de la Couronne dans la face Est par Barbezat, Duplat, Paret et Vignes.
1950 (avril) : Première du Pilier Nord - Est par Barbezat Barral, Duplat et Vignes.
1951 : Voie nouvelle dite 29 mai par Lyan et Coupé.
1952 : Première du pilier Sud par Coupé et Cornaz.
1956 : Première solitaire du pilier Nord - Est par Coupé.
1957 (avril) : Une première en face Est par Desmaison et Couzy.
1957 (août) : Première du pilier Sud - Ouest par Anne-Marie Chenet, Coupé et Vivet.
1959 : Première de la face Sud - Ouest par Coupé et Parat.
1960 : Première par l'éperon du Sud - Sud - Ouest dite Voie des Etudiants par Bernezat et Lasalle.
1963 : Première sur le versant Ouest dite La Tour des Gémeaux par Clunet - Coste et Planchon;
1964 : Première de la face Nord - Ouest par Seigneur et Paris.
1965 : La Directissime Est par Crétin, Martial et Rebreyend.
1966 : La Voie Livanos en face Ouest par Sonia et Georges Livanos, Bres et Vaucher.
1970 : La Voie des Diables en face Sud - Est par Baudet, Desmoulin, Diafera et Durand.
1973 : La Voie de l'éclipse en face Ouest par Diaféria, Pelaton et Salomez.
1974 : La Voie des Présidents dans la partie Sud de la face Est par Couture, Crétin, Exertier et Rebreyend.

Mt Aiguille hicking tour

Mont Aiguille Circuit

Duration: 1-2 days
Difficulty: Easy but long.
Points of interest: Walk through the pine forests around the base of the "Inaccessible Mountain", the astonishing limestone tower that is one of the traditional Seven Wonders of Dauphiné. The trip can be broken by staying overnight at Trésannes or La Richardière.
Public transport: Train from Grenoble to Veynes. Get off at Clelles.
Car: From Grenoble, take the N 75 towards Sisteron as far as Clelles.
Map: IGN Top 25 no. 3236 OT. Didier Richard 1:50 000, no. 12.
Vertical climb: 1092 (549 + 543) m
Total time: 7 hours.
Description: After getting off the train from Grenoble, take the path to the right behind the station. Cross the bridge over the railway and turn left (path marked in yellow). Join another path lined with hedges and go right until you cross the D 7 road. Take the path on the other side of the road (hard to spot). At the next intersection, go right and down through the woods as far as Darne viaduct. Cross the bridge and go under the viaduct (left). After the "Maison de Darne", a good track leads to the village of Trésannes. Pass through the village and continue for another 500 m as far as a ford below the track. Cross the stream and climb a steep path to the Col de Papavet, then follow the track to the Col des Pellas, which is the end of the first climb. From the Col des Pellas, go left along a path that cuts across the bends in the track and descends to Les Pellas. Just above the hamlet, take the track on the left, cross the stream and continue along the track that goes off to the left after the bridge. At the end of the track, cross the bridge and keep left at the fork, towards the Col de l'Aupet. L'Aupet, to the east of the col, is the top of the second climb. Drop down to La Richardière, firstly across a scree slope (SW) and then through the woods. To avoid having to follow the road back to Clelles station, the best way is to go to the hamlet of Donnière and then follow the D 7b for 1 km (landing area for paragliders). Take the mountain-bike track on the left marked in yellow. This crosses Château-Vieux hill and the fitness training circuit before reaching a crossroads. Follow the D 7 towards Clelles for another kilometre and then take the path on the right between the hedges, marked in yellow. On the right is the path taken at the outset, leading back to the station.


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desainme - Oct 21, 2004 9:58 am - Voted 10/10

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I agree


JScoles - Oct 20, 2004 5:12 pm - Hasn't voted

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Famous in American history, the year 1492 is also the date of the first mountain expedition using mechanical tools. In France, the King Charles VIII commanded Dompjulian de Beaupré, Captain of Montelimar, to climb Mount Inaccessible, a 1000 foot rock tower in the Vercors Alps near Grenoble. With grappling hooks, ladders, and skills and knowledge gained from sieging feudal castles, Dompjulian and a dozen of the King's men stormed the limestone tower. Francois de Bosco, a clergyman and member of the expedition, reported the climb as "half a league by means of ladders, and a league by a path which is terrible to look at, and is still more terrible to descend than to ascend." Dompjulian called the route "the most horrible and frightful passage" and after arriving at the summit, a large meadow surrounded by cliffs, he sent a messenger immediately down with a letter for the President of Grenoble. It read, "I send you my hearty greetings. When I left the King he charged me to cause an attempt to be made to see whether it was possible to climb the mountain which was said to be inaccessible; which mountain I, by subtle means and engines, have found the means of climbing, thanks be to God." He refused to leave until the President of Grenoble verified his ascent for the King, and remained a week in "the most beautiful place (he) had ever visited" with flowers of many colors and scents, several varieties of birds, and "a beautiful herd of chamois, which will never be able to get away." No longer could it be named Inaccessible, and Dompjulian rechristened it with its local name of Léguille (now known as Mont Aiguille). This first documented mountaineering ascent was at a time far before mountain climbing was considered recreational exploration, and the feat was purely a technical display of vertical prowess.

Footnote: "Half a league" is the equivalent to 7000 feet and must have been an emotional measurement.


desainme - Oct 21, 2004 9:58 am - Voted 10/10

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I agree

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