Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon: | 44.84304°N / 5.55201°E |
Activities: | Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling |
Season: | Summer |
Elevation: | 6843 ft / 2086 m |
Mont Aiguille is the most known peak of Vercors, French Prealps, even if it is only 2086 m high. Vercors is the Westernmost part of the Alps to have summits over 2000 m and it's part of Dauphiné region. It is 60 Km long (N-S) and 40 KM large (W-E) and is like a fortress 1000 m higher than valleys. It is borded by cliff and canyons and has only one easy access on NE side.
Mont Aiguille already strikes us from afar, observing it emerge like a large ship in the pre-Alpine landscape of the Vercors. To the charm of its forms is added the power of the imagination that inevitably runs to the extraordinary distant adventure of the first ascent. The top is a vast plateau, with the particularity of falling on each side with vertical walls overlooking the surrounding hilly landscape. Access to the summit of Mont-Aiguille is a matter of climbing. There are two fairly easy routes to summit Mont Aiguille. The route called "Normal route" is the most classic and the easiest, suitable even for beginners (provided you do not have vertigo!). Anyhow it still requires suitable equipment and climbing practice. Due to the lack of the original relationship, it is not entirely clear which of the two easiest routes to the summit is the itinerary of the first ascent, but it is probably the Voie des Tubulaires. The mountain is quite busy and to avoid problems due to the meeting of the various groups, the local custom provides a very specific sense of climbing: ascent along the current Via Normale and descent along the Voie des Tubulaires, located further to the right. Both itineraries cover the North-West face. Other more difficult routes await experienced climbers, offering great sensations for all levels of practice. In fact on its walls, from 200 to 300 m high, there are today several routes, including one signed by the Rémy brothers.
Mont Aiguille, "The impossible mountain"
This is how Mont Aiguille was considered at the time of the first ascent, so much so that it was called "Mont Inaccessible". A mountain with no weak sides or paths. The first ascent, promoted by the King of France himself, was really a great exploit for the time: a difficult rock climb (now rated III degree of the UIAA scale) in great advance on its times, which was performed by Antoine de Ville, not a mountaineer but captain of the king's army, which managed to complete with seven improvised companions. Since there were no pegs and climbing material, a set of ladders, rungs, metal devices and other unidentified devices were used. It was the year 1492, curiously the same year as the discovery of America.
Mont Aiguille is located 58 km south of Grenoble.
Road access from Italy
From Torino follow to Monginevro, Briançon, Col de Lautaret, La Grave, Le Bourg d´Oisans, Vizille. Detour to Notre Dame de Mésage for Vif (Grenoble is in the opposite direction), again main road to Monestier de Clermont, St. Michel Les Portes. Here, leave the main road to head into the valley (towards the Bàtie), which indicates "Le Mont Aiguille" to the car park inside the valley at an altitude of 1104 m.
Mont Aiguille Normal route
Summit altitude: 2086 m
Difficulty: UIAA III+
Length: 250 m (climb)
Equipment: pegs, irone fixed ropes
As previously mentioned, the mountain is very popular, therefore to avoid problems due to the meeting of the various teams, the local rules provide a very specific sense of climbing: ascent along the current Via Normale and descent along the Voie des Tubulaires, located further to the right. The climbing is rather easy (UIAA III+ max) and varied, mainly in chimneys interspersed with ledges and little walls. With the many passages the rock has been well cleaned, but in some places also smoothed. The route, partially facilitated by the presence of cables, is however to be considered as a real mountain climb
Approach
The starting point is the Col de l'Aupet 1627 m. Between the two different possible road accesses starting from the village of Saint-Michel-les-Portes, from the north (via La Bâtie) or from the south (through the village of Richardière), we opt for the latter. From Richardière 1022 m, you go to the Chalet de "Ski de fond" and continue by car along a dirt forest road, reaching the Richardière meadows at 1150 m, with ample parking. From here you enter a dense forest following a good path that with numerous serpentines reaches the Col de l'Aupet 1627 m, located west of Mont Aiguille, from where the north-west face is visible. From the hill, go up steeply towards the base of the wall and at a crossroads take the left branch. The start is reached by climbing along a steep detrital cone on the left of the Gendarme de la Vierge and then skirting the wall to the left (north) along some steps. At the base we find a big anchor ring and an ascending ramp to the left.
Climb
Numerous more or less difficult variants are possible along the entire itinerary. Go up the ramp for 15 meters on solid rock with good holds (II degree), then continue directly in a short chimney (III, a fix under the chimney) and reach a terrace. Possible belay on a large pine. Go down slightly to the left and surround a spur to reach the base of another chimney, at first wide then narrower, which you climb for 20 m (III +), exiting on some steps. Belay possible on two rings. Traverse horizontally to the right to reach the base of three chimneys, climb up the one on the left (III) until you reach a long ledge. Possible belay on a pine. Traverse 30 m to the right, going down slightly, to the beginning of the first cable. Climb the aeryl ramps on the right for about a hundred meters in the direction of a detached tower (the Vierge) to the base of a steep wall. Climb the ridge and descend on the opposite side (exposed) on a spacious platform that marks the point of separation between “la Vierge” and the main wall of Mont Aiguille (end of the first section of the cable). With a short downhill passage (or climbing the 2 m elevation above the platform and then to the right) you reach the beginning of a 40 m gully, the Entonnoir. Climb it (II and III, some anchors spaced) up to a large ledge with an anchor at the beginning. Follow the ledge to the right for 20 m (small pine), then overcome a 20 m ridge (III) with two belay points up to a ledge. Traverse to the left and pass under a roof to overcome the characteristic “Passage des Meules”, which you pass (cable), then follow a narrow ledge until you reach the beginning of the final system of chimneys. Anchor to the base of the chimney. Climb the system of chimneys partially equipped with cable (III +) with various possibilities for stopping inside. Then go up the easy steps along the line of the chimneys for 60 meters, exiting on the vast summit plateau (big cairn). An uphill track to the left along the summit prairies leads after 10 minutes to the large summit cairn.
Descent
Several solutions are possible. The descent along the same ascent route is, as mentioned, strongly discouraged due to the usual presence of numerous teams. The full descent along the "Voie des Tubulaires", probably the route of the first absolute ascent, is currently not practiced. The most classic and recommended descent today follows only the final part of the "Voie des Tubulaires". From the top, return to the exit of the route and from here towards the South-West (to the left facing the valley), about 50 meters away, find a cairn above a chimney-channel at a commemorative plaque (Antoine de Ville 1492-1992). Climb down the short chimney, then traverse to the right (north) to reach a detrital ledge which gives access to a gravel channel interspersed with some little walls. Descend the gully for about 100 meters (easy, pay attention to the stones), without making abseils (unstable ground) and without deviating on the horizontal ledges that branch off from both sides of the gully. At the end of the gully, move to the right side and find a belay with an anchor that allows you to make sure to reach the start of the first abseil, 30 meters long, located further down on the left, which uses a combination between the "Via des Tubulaires" and the "Via Freychet". At the end of the abseil you reach a ledge, from where you go up a small ledge to the right (north) up to a pine (cairn) to reach a platform where it's located the anchor for the second abseil.vWith a 50-meter abseil you descend into a deep crack, reaching the base of the wall.
Mont-Aiguille is part of the Hauts-Plateaux du Vercors Nature Reserve. Some rules are therefore required for the protection of this unique place.
Mont Aiguille Circuit Vercors
Duration: 1-2 days Difficulty: Easy but long. Points of interest: Walk through the pine forests around the base of the "Inaccessible Mountain", the astonishing limestone tower that is one of the traditional Seven Wonders of Dauphiné. The trip can be broken by staying overnight at Trésannes or La Richardière. Public transport: Train from Grenoble to Veynes. Get off at Clelles. Car: From Grenoble, take the N 75 towards Sisteron as far as Clelles. Map: IGN Top 25 no. 3236 OT. Didier Richard 1:50 000, no. 12. Vertical climb: 1092 (549 + 543) m Total time: 7 hours.
Description: After getting off the train from Grenoble, take the path to the right behind the station. Cross the bridge over the railway and turn left (path marked in yellow). Join another path lined with hedges and go right until you cross the D 7 road. Take the path on the other side of the road (hard to spot). At the next intersection, go right and down through the woods as far as Darne viaduct. Cross the bridge and go under the viaduct (left). After the "Maison de Darne", a good track leads to the village of Trésannes. Pass through the village and continue for another 500 m as far as a ford below the track. Cross the stream and climb a steep path to the Col de Papavet, then follow the track to the Col des Pellas, which is the end of the first climb. From the Col des Pellas, go left along a path that cuts across the bends in the track and descends to Les Pellas. Just above the hamlet, take the track on the left, cross the stream and continue along the track that goes off to the left after the bridge. At the end of the track, cross the bridge and keep left at the fork, towards the Col de l'Aupet. L'Aupet, to the east of the col, is the top of the second climb. Drop down to La Richardière, firstly across a scree slope (SW) and then through the woods. To avoid having to follow the road back to Clelles station, the best way is to go to the hamlet of Donnière and then follow the D 7b for 1 km (landing area for paragliders). Take the mountain-bike track on the left marked in yellow. This crosses Château-Vieux hill and the fitness training circuit before reaching a crossroads. Follow the D 7 towards Clelles for another kilometre and then take the path on the right between the hedges, marked in yellow. On the right is the path taken at the outset, leading back to the station.
Dauphiné region was bought by France in 1349 by king Philippe VI de Valois.
The first ascent was done in 1492 by Antoine de Ville, seigneur de Dompjulien et de Beaupré (the ascent was ordered by Charles VIII king of France since 1483 and Dauphiné gouvernor before) . S. de Caret and J. Lobret participate to the première.
The second ascent was done on june 16 1834 by Jean Liotard, de Trézanne.
1895 : Première française d'une voie nouvelle sans guide par E. Thorant et H. Chaumat, voie normale de la face Nord ou voie du Sapin mort. La face Nord s'abîmera dans la vallée en 1948.
1919 : Première en solitaire de cette face Nord par J. de Lepiney
1921 : Première hivernale de la voie normale par Dalloz - Tetard - Berger
1922 : Première de la voie des Tubulaires par Lughinbuhl et Zvingelstein. 1950 (janvier) : Première (hivernale) de la voie de la Couronne dans la face Est par Barbezat, Duplat, Paret et Vignes.
1950 (avril) : Première du Pilier Nord - Est par Barbezat Barral, Duplat et Vignes.
1951 : Voie nouvelle dite 29 mai par Lyan et Coupé. 1952 : Première du pilier Sud par Coupé et Cornaz.
1956 : Première solitaire du pilier Nord - Est par Coupé. 1957 (avril) : Une première en face Est par Desmaison et Couzy.
1957 (août) : Première du pilier Sud - Ouest par Anne-Marie Chenet, Coupé et Vivet.
1959 : Première de la face Sud - Ouest par Coupé et Parat.
1960 : Première par l'éperon du Sud - Sud - Ouest dite Voie des Etudiants par Bernezat et Lasalle.
1963 : Première sur le versant Ouest dite La Tour des Gémeaux par Clunet - Coste et Planchon;
1964 : Première de la face Nord - Ouest par Seigneur et Paris.
1965 : La Directissime Est par Crétin, Martial et Rebreyend.
1966 : La Voie Livanos en face Ouest par Sonia et Georges Livanos, Bres et Vaucher.
1970 : La Voie des Diables en face Sud - Est par Baudet, Desmoulin, Diafera et Durand.
1973 : La Voie de l'éclipse en face Ouest par Diaféria, Pelaton et Salomez.
1974 : La Voie des Présidents dans la partie Sud de la face Est par Couture, Crétin, Exertier et Rebreyend.
JScoles - Oct 20, 2004 5:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentFamous in American history, the year 1492 is also the date of the first mountain expedition using mechanical tools. In France, the King Charles VIII commanded Dompjulian de Beaupré, Captain of Montelimar, to climb Mount Inaccessible, a 1000 foot rock tower in the Vercors Alps near Grenoble. With grappling hooks, ladders, and skills and knowledge gained from sieging feudal castles, Dompjulian and a dozen of the King's men stormed the limestone tower. Francois de Bosco, a clergyman and member of the expedition, reported the climb as "half a league by means of ladders, and a league by a path which is terrible to look at, and is still more terrible to descend than to ascend." Dompjulian called the route "the most horrible and frightful passage" and after arriving at the summit, a large meadow surrounded by cliffs, he sent a messenger immediately down with a letter for the President of Grenoble. It read, "I send you my hearty greetings. When I left the King he charged me to cause an attempt to be made to see whether it was possible to climb the mountain which was said to be inaccessible; which mountain I, by subtle means and engines, have found the means of climbing, thanks be to God." He refused to leave until the President of Grenoble verified his ascent for the King, and remained a week in "the most beautiful place (he) had ever visited" with flowers of many colors and scents, several varieties of birds, and "a beautiful herd of chamois, which will never be able to get away." No longer could it be named Inaccessible, and Dompjulian rechristened it with its local name of Léguille (now known as Mont Aiguille). This first documented mountaineering ascent was at a time far before mountain climbing was considered recreational exploration, and the feat was purely a technical display of vertical prowess.
Footnote: "Half a league" is the equivalent to 7000 feet and must have been an emotional measurement.