North Face Direct

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 39.58860°N / 105.6428°W
Additional Information Route Type: Snow Climb
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: Steep Snow
Sign the Climber's Log


To beat the crowds and make the most of your climb start early from the Echo Lake Trailhead. On the western edge of the lake go over the ridge that divides Echo Lake from the Chicago Creek Drainage, and drop into the drainage. Follow the trail the climbs up the drainage up to the first Chicago Lake. Go around the west side of the lake and climb up to the second lake. To the southeast, steep slopes rise above you to the south ridge of Mt. Warren. Climb up these slopes and exit onto the flats near Summit Lake. From here you can contemplate what you still have left.

This approach is long, (approximately 4.5 miles on way), but is very scenic, and makes the climb more substantial. Without this approach and starting from Summit Lake, the climb can be reduced more to a half day outing.

Route Description

Cross the Summit Lake flats over to the bottom of the steep slopes that lead to the North Face. Climb up these steep slopes and up into the small basin at base of the summit cliff. From here you can contemplate your options. To the west lie the sheer cliffs right below Evans' true summit. To the right of these cliffs lies a small narrow gully. Both of these are options for other routes which I will probably add later. The easiest route is to the west (right) of the aforementioned gully, straight up the massive snowfield that lies in front of you. This huge snowfield tops out on a steep rocky slope right below a small notch in Evans' west ridge. Climb this snow field, up to the top. In some places it can get quite steep, and the may snow may be very hard packed. This snowfield provides spectacular skiing late in the season. From the to pof the snow field, traverse across the steep slopes to a point where you can gain the ridge. From here the summit is a short ways to the east. Unless you're and expert skier and have equipment descend by another route. To shorten the length of the climb you can setup a shuttle somewhere along the road.

Essential Gear

Crampons, and an ice ax are absolute musts. Know self arrest, since a fall on the steep snowfield could be devastating. A rope isn't needed but is always a safe precaution.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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