Snave II

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 39.58860°N / 105.6428°W
Additional Information Route Type: Steep Snow \ Scramble
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 4
Additional Information Difficulty: Class 4 (Steep Snow ) Low 5.+ moves dry
Sign the Climber's Log
Snave II Route July 4, 2005


From Summit Lake TH less than 1 mile to summit,

This route seems to be much less traveled than any other route on Mount Evans which is fantastic, The trail up is not very well worn but route finding is cut and dry and getting lost should be about impossible, If you find yourself lost just ask one of the 50+ people on the summit with you. They will help you find your way

Route Description

Final push through  Snave II
Rock Bands
Half way up

From Summit Lake, walk south on Mt Evans Rd a few hundred feet from the parking lot beyond Summit Lake drainage

-Head right and start your ascent.
When starting this route scramble over vague trail up to the bowl of Mt Evans wicked North Face & Mt Spalding.
Approx 500' Verticle

-Once there, you will notice the fairly obvious Zig Zagged scramble over loose Talus & Scree to the entrance of
The Snave Approx 900'+
This section of the climb looks daunting from the parking lot but once your feet are chugging up it, it offers loose but enjoyable Class 3 scrambling.

To stay on route be sure to follow the two large exposed slabs.
-The first will be on your left
-The second will be a massive right angled slab that you will want to be above, be sure to stay high and tight to the North Face. The exposure is not high but loose boulders could be a problem.

-The entrance to "The Snave" is a large notch in the North Face that when dry offers some interesting low 5. scrambling\climbing. When I did this section there were patches of Snow and Ice that made route picking interesting but not frightening, An Ice Axe is bennefical depending on how much ice is up there. Not so much for placements but to help grab a higher hold than what someone not 6'5" like myself could grab.

-Once you Top out of the "The Snave" travel on the well marked trail on your right to the Summit Cairn

In winter Gerry Roach rates this climb as solid Class 4 Steep Snow Travel.

I intend on doing this climb come winter and expect the route to be a completely different beast and look foreward to this task. I will post accordingly

Essential Gear


  • Helmet
  • Ice Axe
  • Wind Shell

WINTER ITEMS: all of the above +

  • Crampons
  • Rope
  • Pro to 3" for rocky sections
  • Pickets


Travel either:
North East Face
Summit Ridge

Sunrise Coulior

Misc Info

This climb offers spectacular views of the Front Range, from Pikes Peak to Longs Peak. Denver to Grays & Torreys, you can see it all up here.

If you can get past the fact that there will be family's hanging around eating hot dogs and chasing the mountain goats you will have an excellent time knowing you "earned" this summit via one of the more tough climbs Mount Evans has to offer.

For winter travel I can see this being a fairly demanding climb that will offer even a seasoned climber something to talk about, The notch section of the climb is well close to or great than 50 degree's, I would insist on roping up for this with a good running belay. Rock and snow "pro" will give you piece of mind. From Summit Lake this climb is not much traveling so the weight should not be an issue, and the gear you bring should be minimal



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