Flex Cam
Gear Review

Flex Cam


Page Type: Gear Review

Object Title: Flex Cam

Manufacturer: Trango

Your Opinion: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: Alan Ellis

Created/Edited: Oct 25, 2002 / Oct 25, 2002

Object ID: 9199

Hits: 84 


When we introduced the FlexCams™ last year, we knew we had something truly exceptional. We’ve always been fans of function and versatility. We think that FlexCams™ embody these qualities better than any other cams on the market.

FlexCams™ are a superb blend of flexibility and stiffness: They’re flexible enough that the cables won’t kink if you catch a fall over an edge, yet stiff enough to offer precise control for tricky placements and sticky removals. The aircraft-grade stainless steel cable provides flexibility and strength, and the 1.5mm-thick nylon shrouding provides stiffness and protection.

Most mono-stem cams are finished with a cool little forged piece that gets swaged onto the cable-end and has a hole in it for the sling. These look great (and are easy on the manufacturing budget), but they require you to get your fingers around the trigger bar, then fumble to get your thumb on the end. Once your hand is finally set, you have little control of the cam the trigger just twists around the stem. Our low-tech but high-function swaged loop solves these problems, giving you precise control over the cam. Plus, it lets you clip in short for super-efficient aiding.

The expansion range of a cam is the difference between its smallest and largest size, so a large expansion range is a good thing. You can be a bit sloppy when choosing a cam to fit the crack your hands are stuffed into. Even if you blow it, the cam you grabbed might fit—if you’re lucky. But a large expansion range doesn’t reduce the number of cams you have to carry. If you want to place pro every 15 feet on a 150-foot pitch, you’ll need 10 cams, regardless of their expansion range.

Which brings us to weight. Take a look at a popular cam, known for its expansion range, and compare it to our FlexCams™. In the popular hand size, this cam has 12% greater expansion range. That sounds great, until you look at the numbers and realize this is a whopping 3mm: the thickness of a tortilla. That same cam weighs 20% more than our comparable FlexCam™, meaning you can carry 10 FlexCams™ for every 8 of the “expansive” ones. We use a double-looped 12mm Ultratape™ sling, so you can clip in directly, at 4 inches or at 8 inches. That means you’ll rarely need a quick draw, which saves even more time and weight.

The cams lobes are CNC machined from 7075 aluminum extrusions, allowing us to control tolerances to a fraction of a millimeter. New for 2002 are full-strength, machined-in cam stops. While we don’t recommend placing cams in a fully open position, in the event that your cam walks into a wide spot and ends up fully opened, it won’t invert under load.

• size range: 11.5mm–90mm (See our website for complete specs) www.trango.com

• strength: 8kN–12kN (passive or active) • cam angle: 14 degrees


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Alan EllisUntitled Review

Voted 4/5

These cams are great! The loop for your thumb is good security and I like the double runners. These were great for doubling up on the mid-sizes, especially at $39.00.

Downs: #8 (biggest) is a bit unstable.

Posted Oct 25, 2002 1:03 pm

Erik BeelerUntitled Review

Voted 5/5

I love these cams. They now offer a full range of them from size #.5 to #9. I only have the sizes #5 thru #9 as I prefer the Aliens for the smaller sizes.

The Trangos have flexible stems allowing for more placement options with out worrying about possibly rupturing a stiff stem. Also the larger sizes (#5+) have a great "pivot" allowing the stem to move with out moving the cams reducing the chance the cam will "walk". The smaller sizes don't seem to pivot as easily. These cams are also some of the lightest out there and I definately like the fact I am carrying less weight.

Like I said above I don't use the smaller sizes so the five stars is for the larger sizes only but I certainly would think the smaller sizes would rate at least four stars.
Posted Nov 16, 2005 12:37 pm

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