Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Aug 4, 2012
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer


I have been doing several climbs with my 10 year old son Kessler, but the class 4 peaks such as Pyramid (completed on June 30) are no longer very challenging for him and he wanted something a bit harder.

After admiring the Maroon Bells from Pyramid Peak, the thought of climbing the traverse was certainly looked appealing. The only problem was that the Maroon Bells Traverse seems to have a rather fierce reputation among climbers. Photos make the route look quite difficult. Could we do it? Were we ready? The ridge is long on class 4 and 5 terrain and is considered to be one of the more difficult connecting ridges between 14,000+ foot peaks in Colorado. Kessler and I had certainly done several technical routes together. Should we just climb one of the peaks and see how things go?

On the weekend of August 4th, several members were also planning on the traverse, which was worrisome because of rockfall, but good because we hoped to find some partners. We expressed our interest in joining up and were ready for to attempt the climb.

Warning SignWarning sign near the trailhead.

Another warning signAnother warning sign near the trailhead.

Maroon BellsThe beautiful Maroon Bells; Colorado's iconic mountains. Prettier when the sun is shining though.

August 3rd-The Approach

In the evening, Kessler and I hiked to Crater Lake to look for a campsite. Luckily we found an unoccupied campsite and we set up camp before heading to bed. Unfortunately I had trouble sleeping (one reason was that I had forgotten any type of pillow, the other was that there were several animals stirring in the bushes).

Backpacking inBackpacking into Crater Lake.

August 4th-The Climb

Today was the big day. We got a later start than we had wanted to and didn’t start until 6:30 AM. We made our way quickly up North Maroon Peak. Because there were several people on the route, we wanted to get ahead of them to avoid rockfall. We passed probably 15 people on the way to the summit and summited in a rather quickly 3 hours 20 minutes. Along the way we climbed several of the cliff bands directly, both for fun and to avoid crowds.

North MaroonNorth Maroon Peak looks surprisingly benign from this angle.

North MaroonThe North Face of North Maroon.

Kessler and IKessler and I partway up North Maroon Peak.

RestingKessler resting on a ledge on North Maroon. The route up basically goes from the top of his helmet straight to the summit.

Other ClimbersSome of the other climbers on the Maroon Bells.

North MaroonLooking down a gentle section of North Maroon. You still had to be careful with some loose rock.

ClimbingKessler and some others climbing North Maroon.

PitchGetting ready to climb a vertical pitch.

Snowmass and CapitolSnowmass Mt and Capitol Peak from North Maroon.

RestTaking a rest on a gentle section of North Maroon.

RidgeClimbers on the ridge just below North Maroon summit. The valley is 4000+ feet (1200m+) below.

ScrambleScrambling on North Maroon.

Once we were on the summit, there were two other climbers preparing to climb the traverse. We asked if we could join them until after the rappel. They accepted and because they were leaving right then we immediately left the summit of North Maroon without stopping or even snapping a summit photo.

TraverseLeaving the summit of North Maroon. It's going to get difficult ahead. Unfortunately, we didn't get any photos of the hard parts since we were concentrating on climbing.

North MaroonClimbers on the summit of North Maroon, which we just left and downclimbed to this point.

We made good progress along the traverse and passed the members near the rappel. Our group of four rapped down the rappel, but there were still many climbing obstacles between the rappel and the notch/lowpoint between the Maroons.

TraverseKessler on the traverse between the Maroon Peaks. Going North to South, this is the rappel.

RappelThe rappel on the traverse.

We made steady progress and basically stayed on route until the low point. On the climb up to Maroon Peak, Kessler and I got into a nasty gully that was a pain to climb. We were a bit off route and this was the worst part of the traverse.

South MaroonSouth Maroon is in the background. if you can get to the notch and stay on route, the rest of the climb can be somewhat straight-forward.

ClimbersClimbers on North Maroon.

DownclimbClimbing down a section of the Maroon Traverse.

DownclimbingDownclimbing a section of the Maroon Traverse.

TraverseThere were ledges where you had to duck around rocks.

RidgePart of the ridge on the Bells Traverse.

TraverseClimbers on the Maroon Traverse.

TraversePart of the traverse.

DownclimbKessler starting a downclimb on the Bells Traverse.

ScramblingAnother scrambling section, this one easy. We didn't get photos of the hard parts because we had to concentrate.

Summit guardCan you spot the mountain goat? He was the final obstacle in getting to the top of Maroon Peak.

Looking BackLooking back to North Maroon and over the traverse we just climbed.

Eventually Kessler and I summited Maroon and decided to eat lunch. It has taken us 1 hour 40 minutes to complete the traverse, which is supposed to be a pretty good time. We waited for the other two climbers (we never did catch their names!) at the summit before bidding farewell and heading down the mountain.

SummitOn the summit of Maroon Peak.

On the way down we got a little off route because we stayed too close to the ridge crest right from the summit. We crossed a notch and followed a cairned route up the other side. The cairned route eventually petered out at a sub-peak and we were forced to backtrack, losing almost an hour. This route was the only route on any 14er where I have ever gotten off route so far.

South MaroonSome of the scrambling on Maroon Peak descent.

The descent of Maroon Peak was a pain and after making our way back to the standard route and along all the ups and downs, we were “home free” as all as we had to do was descend directly down to Maroon Creek. The route down was relentless and loose though and seemingly took forever. It took us longer to descend Maroon Peak than it did to climb North Maroon and do the traverse.

South RidgeLeaving the summit of Maroon Peak.

Looking down the scree field‎Looking down the 3000 foot scree descent on South Maroon. What a wonderful (not) way to end long day of climbing.

We arrived at camp rather tired, so we took a short rest before packing up and heading for home. On the way down we chatted with several people.

The Maroon Traverse was a good one, but with much loose rock, it has a higher risk factor than most other 14er routes. The route was fun to the summit of Maroon Peak, but the descent of Maroon Peak is relentless, not too aesthetic and isn’t a route I’d care to repeat. Other than the descent of Maroon Peak, Kessler had a blast and is excited to do more 14er traverses. I had a good time too, so it was a very successful trip.


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Viewing: 1-7 of 7

WebTraveler - Aug 14, 2012 2:34 am - Voted 10/10

Another Winner

Your accounts are always succinct and enjoyable. Add to that, you always accompany the reports with lots of photos. Makes for a definite winner.


Scott - Aug 14, 2012 4:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Another Winner

"Add to that, you always accompany the reports with lots of photos."

Yes; I think photos are more effective at telling a story than extra words. :) Thanks for the comments.


Floyd - Aug 14, 2012 12:10 pm - Hasn't voted

Incredible Stuff Scott

Congrats to you and, of course, Kessler.


lsheen - Aug 14, 2012 7:16 pm - Voted 10/10

I'd guess that someday...

We'll be hearing about Kessler ascending SICK routes on 8000ers. Once the climbing flame is ignited, it's hard to extinguish!

Congrats to you & Kessler, and thanks for sharing.

Big lew


MoapaPk - Aug 19, 2012 8:43 pm - Voted 10/10

I wish you had more pics!

The text is good for giving a "feeling" for the route. I would like to do that traverse some day. I have a fair amount of experience with crappy-rock traverses, but I wonder if I have the right analogy.


seth@LOKI - Aug 20, 2012 3:56 pm - Voted 10/10

Great perspectives!

You captured some great angles I've not seen from on the Bells. Nice work as usual Scott!

My boy Asa is four. What age did Kessler get into it and able to summit high peaks? I know a girl had summited all 14ers by age 7... Not that that is the plan, he is into hiking and scrambling already.


Scott - Aug 20, 2012 7:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great perspectives!

Not that that is the plan, he is into hiking and scrambling already.

Nice to see you getting out with your son.

What age did Kessler get into it and able to summit high peaks?


Here are some trip reports from ages 3, 4 and 5:

Age 3

Age 3

Age 3

Age 4

Age 4

Age 5

Age 5

Viewing: 1-7 of 7



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