Page Type
Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
rock climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Created On: Apr 15, 2002
Last Edited On: Apr 15, 2002


Engelhorn hut or Rosenlaui

Route Description

To crest Gross Simelistock (2482 m) there is a large variety of routes. All require rock climbing with some biners and a 40 to 60 m rope for rappel. All routes are exposed, but consist of solid limestone. The most common route starts at the Klein Simelistock and uses the southwest ridge (1.5 hours from Klein Simelistock). On the photo you see the south wall where three routes are popular. One uses the couloir in the middle from the Simelisattel to the upper guy of the rappel (MacDonald chimney). It is also possible to start from the right lower end and get to the guy through some fine fissure (route called Egg). The third route starts in the middle of the picture's bottom and uses the fissures going up to the left (called south face). Ca. 1 hour from Simelisattel.

To get to the Simelisattel (2426 m) take the path from the Engelhorn hut to the Ochsen valley. As soon as you reach the horizontal part, turn left and head for this saddle between Gross Simelistock and Vorderspitz. There are 3 couloirs to chose, take the on on the right (as seen from below). Stay on the Vorderspitz flank, after passing a huge hole on your left, leave the
flank and head for the saddle. 1.5 hours, easy climbing.

The first ascent took place in 1898 by Macdonald and Allmer. They seemed to have had a dispute on the summit about the way to go back to Simelisattel. One of them got so mad, that he took the rope and threw it down to Simelisattel. It was probably not much fun climbing down the face without a rope and equipped with nailed boots of that time.

The young and modern climber finds routes up to IX- with such names as Silberfinger, Agonie, Kombination, Silbermagic, Decubitus.

Essential Gear

Biners, rope (30 - 60 m). Relay equipped for rappel.

Miscellaneous Info

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