Still in Saigon and Miss Saigon

Page Type
Route
Location:
New Hampshire, United States, North America
Route Type:
technical rock climb
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.8
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
2
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 4 Votes

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Created On: Mar 3, 2003
Last Edited On: Jun 19, 2012

Approach

See Thin Air approach. The start of Still in Saigon is approximately 50 meters left and uphill from Thin Air, at a large tree whose trunk is curved at the base.


Route Description

Pitch 1 (Still in Saigon): Climb a series of blocky steps to a bolt, then make a delicate 5.8 friction move up a steep slab and mantle onto a ledge with a piton. Continue up the line of least resistance past more bolts and pitons to another mantle (5.8), also protected by a bolt. Some descriptions call this second mantle the crux, but I did not find it any more difficult than the move after the very first bolt. After this second mantle, follow a flake up and left (natural gear possible here)until it's possible to move right on a series of steps to a bolted anchor on a ledge. 5.8, 130'

Pitch 2 (Miss Saigon): From the bolted anchor, climb more or less straight up another blocky face (watch for pitons hidden in horizontal cracks) to a short 5.7 or so slab/face problem with a piton after it. After this, climb a tricky bulge (5.8, natural gear available in a horizontal crack which will be at your feet as you pull the crux) and then clip a final bolt on the left before topping out on another ledge and bolted anchor. 5.8, 70'

Essential Gear

A small rack of cams to 2" and/or small to medium nuts (I did not place any, but saw some opportunities to), otherwise about 6 draws for bolts especially on the first pitch, and many slings for the numerous pitons on both pitches. Caution: do not clip those old pitons pounded into horizontal cracks with a biner, this would likely cause them to break in the event a fall; girth hitch them with a sling instead.

Descent

Two 60-meter ropes will get you to the ground in one rappel. Otherwise, two single-rope rappels with either a 60 or 70-meter rope will get you down; if using a 60, watch the ends of the rope on the second rappel (from the anchors on top of pitch 1) and try to swing to climber's left a little, as the ground is higher there - it's a close one!

Still in Saigon and Miss Saigon

Route
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