Page Type
New Hampshire, United States, North America
Route Type:
trad climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Created On: Oct 12, 2004
Last Edited On: Oct 12, 2004


Same approach as for The Toe crack. The start for this route is that same ramp, that is also the start to Standard route.

Route Description

We actually did this route by climbing up to the second belay on Thin Air, and then setting up a toprope from it, and toproping it with 2 ropes. Normally this probably isn't a very good idea because you will be blocking traffic on Thin Air, but we did it late in the day when we were the only ones left on the face. It should be noted that the normal belay for Windfall is on a ledge about 10 feet below the one on Thin Air, and doesn't interfere with Thin Air traffic.

The route starts on the ramp, then goes back left up a slabby face aiming for the overlap slightly left of the middle you will see chalk marks). This part is entirely unprotected. Once you reach the overlap, you can get gear in the crack that runs underneath it. Surmount the overlap (probably the crux; not very difficult on toprope but I bet it feels very different on lead!), then wander up the apparently improbably and endless face, aiming for a series of bolts and pins. Despite the improbable appearance, holds (hand and foot) seem to magically appear just when you need them. Those who enjoy face climbing will absolutely love this section.

Rap with 2 ropes to the ground from the anchors. For an extra, fun boulder move, try climbing up to the Thin Air belay ledge.

Essential Gear

small to medium pieces; quickdraws and some long slings for gear under the overlap. Most of the protection is fixed, so don't bring 50 pounds of gear...

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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