this is both a Mountain and a Route page
as for this structure belongs to a "ridge" of a real mountain we can consider it not a separate summit.
One of the finest towers (and routes) of the group.
It requires a not short approach (almost 2½ hours from the car parking) and can be considered as a good test for fit and training
Many routes (some never climbed twice)
Rock is not everywhere good so I can suggest to choose between 2 routes :
the via del Littorio
and the Cassin
on the south wall (much more difficult and a little longer - 160m)
There are many ways to get the starting point of the routes of this tower, but if you're not experienced in Grignetta paths and tracks,
the less difficult (to find) approach is coming down from Rif. Rosalba so :
Starting from Piano dei Resinelli follow the road till Rifugio Porta.
Follow the path "Direttissima" (mark 8) till the Rifugio Rosalba (1730m) - 2h
Once here you must go down along the "sentiero delle foppe" (mark 9) and in 10 minutes you arrive to the bottom of the S wall of Torrione Cinquantenario.
Now you must cross, along steep grass slopes under the Torre Cecilia till a small saddle (little rocky spur on the right).
Cross toward a channel between Torre Cecilia and Torre Costanza and follow it till the saddle. (1 hour)
Starting from the saddle you can climb the normal route
(4°) that follows a series of chimneys along the N wall,
give a look to this route that should be used to come down.
Route Description : via del Littorio
But if you want to climb a fine route you must descend almost 50 m from the saddle till a plaque that marks the starting point of the
via del Littorio
- 130m - 5° (5.7)
This is the finest, and the less difficult among the many routes of this tower
|From the plaque follow a rocky spur (with some grass) to a small belay point (3° and 4°)|
Follow the spur for 20 more m till a ledge under some overhangs (3°)
Climb along a big chimney that leads to a small saddle - 20m - (4°)
Along a cracked dihedral till an uncomfortable belay point. - 15m (A1 - 1 pass 5° or 7°)
A short cross to the left , up some metres and slightly toward right till the belay point - 20m (5°sup and 4°)
Straight to the summit - 30m, (3°)
|Descend is along the "normal route" using 2 long rappels|
After the first rappel you must cross some metres to find the starting point on the second one.
2 ropes of 40m
2 stepladders or etriers can be useful
|2°||PD||3 - 4|
|3°inf - 3° - 3° sup||AD||5 - 5.2|
|4° inf - 4° - 4° sup||D||5.3 - 5.5|
|5° inf - 5° - 5° sup||TD||5.6 - 5.8|
|6° inf - 6° - 6° sup||ED||5.9 - 5.11|
|7°||EX||5.11a - 5.11b|