Via Galerie Cubryńskie

Via Galerie Cubryńskie

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 49.18772°N / 20.05522°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: YDS Class 3-4
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

This route leads from Morskie Oko, via Dolina za Mnichem (literally the Valley beyond the Monk) at about 1800m to Hińczowa/Hincovo Pass at 2323m. From Dolina za Mnichem the route is not marked with paint but has little cairns. The first half of the route is used as an approach route by most of the rock climbers who climb Mnich. The whole route is part of the descent/easy ascent of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štít or Cubryna/Čubrina.

Route Profile

Time up: 
Map of rout Through Galerie...  
Morskie Oko Hut to Dolina za Mnichem 1hr  Dolina za Mnichem to Hińczowa Pass 2.33hrs Total time up: about 3.33hrs
Net elevation gain: 913m Total elevation gain: approx. 1,000m Rock difficulty: Polish grade 0+ / YDS class 3-easy 4
Crumbly last stretch (the couloir)

When to Climb

 
Hincova pass and view on Morskie Oko  25 October 2009
The best time to do this route is when there is no snow in the Hińczowy Couloir which drops from Hińczowa/Hincovo Pass. Such conditions are the most likely from August to September. Snow tends to linger on Mała Galeria Cubryńska as well as in the couloir, and the route can be impassable/too dangerous without an ice axe and crampons in early July and sometimes later too. In winter and spring the route - especially Mała Galeria - is extremely dangerous because of avalanches. The steep passage between Mała Galeria and Wielka Galeria is also very dangerous, so it is not advisable to do this route in those seasons.

Route Description

To find out how to get to Morskie Oko, please see the parent page.
Morskie Oko Nearing Dolina za Mnichem, Morskie Oko on the left - photo by Konrad Sus 
MSW at sundown Looking towards Hińczowa/Hincovo Pass (centre) from the yellow trail 
From the hut take the yellow trail that leads, above the western shore of the beautiful tarn, to Szpiglasowa Pass. In less than an hour you will be at the mouth of Dolina za Mnichem, where you turn left to follow the red marks (which lead to the pass called Wrota Chałubińskiego, i.e. Chałubiński's Gate), but only for several metres.
Cubryna seen from a step of...  
Szpiglasowa Grań from E Looking across Dolina za Mnichem from the path to Mnichowe Plecy 
Now on your left begins an unmarked path (not very clear at the very start) that heads for the south foot of Mnich. Follow this path to a kind of terrace called Mnichowe Plecy (Monk's Back), owing to its location behind Mnich.
Mnich’s W face Mnich from the path to Mnichowe Plecy 
When you are on Mnichowe Plecy, turn right and walk in the direction opposite to Mnich, i.e. to the south, towards the knoll of Mnichowa Kopa and impressive Zadni Mnich (Rear Monk).
Towards Mnichowa Kopa Mnichowa Kopa (the knoll on the left) and Zadni Mnich (the crag right of centre) 
Having traversed the summit of Mnichowa Kopa on the left, you get a spectacular view of the northeast face of Zadni Mnich.
Beyond Mnichowa Kopa Beyond Mnichowa Kopa 
Then the path skirts the upper end of Żleb pod Mnichem (Couloir under the Monk) to sharply descend 80m (YDS class 3-4, exposure) onto a slanting terrace below and above the cliffs of Cubryna,
Mnich from S At the top of Żleb pod Mnichem 
known as Mała Galeria Cubryńska (Cubryna's Little Gallery).
Mała Galeria Cubryńska  Mała Galeria Cubryńska
From here you have an excellent view of the southeast face of Mnich.
Mnich s SE face Mnich's SE face
The path traverses the gallery and at its other end enters a little, oblique chute. Walk up the chute for a few metres to soon traverse left towards the exposed edge of this passage, where the path shows again. The path will take you up to a vast gallery, much bigger than Mała Galeria Cubryńska, not surprisingly named Wielka (Great) Galeria Cubryńska.
Wielka Galeria Cubryńska Cubryna's NE wall seen from Wielka Galeria Cubryńska
Traverse the Great Gallery, following cairns, towards the outlet of the great couloir (Hińczowy Żleb) that drops from the pass between the massifs of Cubryna and Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki, i.e. Hińczowa Przełęcz/Hincovo sedlo.
MSW’s NW face Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki's NW face
Cross the outlet of the couloir and keep on following cairns, ascending the left-hand (eastern) side of the crumbly couloir most of the way (lots of scree) and finally via its bottom.
Ascend E side of couloir Just above Wielka Galeria Cubryńska
Halfway up Hińczowy Żleb Halfway up
Hińczowy Żleb from its top The couloir seen from the pass
Hińczowa Przełęcz/Hincovo sedlo offers a picturesque view of the tarns to its south, i.e. Hincove plesá.
Hincove plesá South from the pass
From the pass you can reach the summit of Cubryna/Čubrina (2376m) in about 20 minutes and Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štít (2438m) in 1-1.5hrs.
Velky Mengusovsky stit Seen from S: Cubryna (left) and Mięguszowiecki (right) - photo by horrste

Essential Gear

Summer conditions: Normal hiking gear should suffice as long as there isn't much snow in the couloir, which can be filled with old snow throughout the summer.
Cubryna peak from Lysa Polana Seen from Łysa Polana - photo by Tomek Lodowy
Winter conditions (according to dynercia, yatsek would avoid the route in winter): crampons, ice axe, rope, a few ice screws and loops.

Red Tape & Mountain Conditions

Please see the parent page.
The Monk (2069m)Mnich shot during an evening descent - by LukZem

External Links

Photo TR by R. Szadkowski, Tatra guide. The party chose our route for the first part of their ascent of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki/Veľký Mengusovský štit.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.