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"1° maggio" couloir
Route

"1° maggio" couloir

 
"1° maggio" couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: Lazio, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 42.47330°N / 12.99720°E

Object Title: "1° maggio" couloir

Route Type: Ice Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD+

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Lupino

Created/Edited: Mar 21, 2005 / Mar 8, 2008

Object ID: 164400

Hits: 3226 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Approach

The ascent starts at Rifugio Sebastiani (1820 meters). From Pian de' Valli a road reachs directly the refuge. Sometimes, the snow conditions can not allow to continues along the road so that you must leave the car on a side of the road, where possible, or even before at Pian dè Valli (add 30 minutes up to Refuge Sebastiani).

Route Description

The "1 maggio" route is an amazing and pleasent climb on a mountain so close to Rome. The difficulties vary depending on the the snow condition, but in general it is safe and the risk of snowslides or avalanche are low if you follow the route.
By 40 minutes from the Rifugio Sebastiani you arrive at a snow saddle (Selletta delle Scangive). Descend it for 50 meters, taking on your left the base of the Chiaretti-Pietrostefani couloir, and climb again a snow slope for 80 about meters.
The final step of the  1...
Getting out

The base of the couloir is on your left. Climb the couloir for 150 meters (45° mostly, up to 55° the final step). About 30 meters before the exit of the couloir there is a rock, that is perfect for belaying. In case of very much snow, the rock can be completely covered and it is better belaying 20 meters below on the rocky wall on your left (winter 2006).
 
Climbing in the couloir
In the middle

At the end you arrive at a saddle, joining the route coming from the Chiaretti-Pietrostefani couloir. By climbing a rocky wall (15 meters, II grade) you overcome the last difficulty of the route. Alternatively, you can climb on ice on your left. Ascending the N-ridge, you arrive easily to summit (2:30-3:00 hours from the first saddle).
The descent is from one of the snow slopes on the NE-side of the Terminillo (00:45-1:00 hour up to Rifugio Sebastiani.

Essential Gear

Harnesses, rope, helmets, ice-axe, crampons, friends, nuts, carabiners are required.

Images