ApproachThe ascent starts at Rifugio Sebastiani (1820 meters). From Pian de' Valli a road reachs directly the refuge. Sometimes, the snow conditions can not allow to continues along the road so that you must leave the car on a side of the road, where possible, or even before at Pian dè Valli (add 30 minutes up to Refuge Sebastiani).
Route DescriptionThe "Chiaretti-Pietrostefani" is probably the most climbed couloir of Terminillo in winter. It is a pleasent snow/ice climb, not exposed to snowslides or avalanche risks. If the snow conditions are good, you can climb from December to April.
By 40 minutes from the Rifugio Sebastiani you arrive at a snow saddle (Selletta delle Scangive). Descend it for 20 meters on your left, reaching the base of the couloir. Climb the couloir for 180 meters (40-45° mostly, 55° a step of about 3-4 meters).
The steepest step |
Getting out the couloir |
Once out of the couloir, you must continue along the easy and not so steep ridge up to the base of a snowy step (about 10 meters) being care to possible cornice at the end of it. Following the N-ridge proceed to a saddle, joining the route coming from the “1 maggio” couloir. By climbing a rocky wall (15 meters, II grade) you overcome the last difficulty of the route. Alternatively, you can climb on ice on your left. Ascending the N-ridge, you arrive easily to summit (2:00-2:30 hours from the first saddle).
The descent is from one of the snow slopes on the NE-side of the Terminillo (00:45-1:00 hour up to Rifugio Sebastiani.
Essential GearHarnesses, rope, helmets, ice-axe, crampons, friends, carabiners are required.
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