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Aiguillette du Lauzet
Mountain/Rock

Aiguillette du Lauzet

 
Aiguillette du Lauzet

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Lat/Lon: 45.01973°N / 6.48288°E

Object Title: Aiguillette du Lauzet

County: Hautes-Alpes

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 8566 ft / 2611 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: May 17, 2012 / Mar 7, 2016

Object ID: 790495

Hits: 2135 

Page Score: 86.85%  - 23 Votes 

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Overview

Aiguillette du Lauzet, a limestone tower in the Western Alps



Aiguillette du Lauzet is a slender limestone’s tower belonging to the group named "Massif des Cerces", situated North-West from the town of Briançon; it’s the steepest and finest peak in the right-hand side of a group of three ones overlooking the Alpe du Lauzet.





Aiguillette du LauzetAiguillette du Lauzet

Getting There

ROAD ACCESS

- From Turin follow the road to Colle del Monginevro on Italy-France border, then the road N94 to Briançon, reaching the town. Carry on towards Col du Lautaret following the road N91, reach Le Lauzet and then Pont de l’Alpe m. 1668, a little settlement situated some kilometres before the Col du Lautaret on Briancon side (Guisane Valley). Parking.


- From Grenoble follow the road to Col du Lautaret, reach the col, then down along Guisan Valley toward Briançon, reaching Ponte de l'Alpe m. 1668. Parking.

Shadow coming down on Guisane Valley
The Guisane Valley

A flower springing out from the limestone (Campanula cochleariifolia)
A flower springing out from the rock on Davin route



WALKING ACCESS TO SW AND S FACES

From Pont de l’Alpe follow a good trail rising towards East and reaching the suggestive Alpe du Lauzet. Carry on and nearby a sign turn to right and follow a level trail becoming very narrow and starting to rise steeply toward the obvious peak with several hairpins. The trail leads to another path named “Chemin de Roy”; follow it towards right, reaching a grassy gully on the right-hand side (1,30 hour from the parking).

A great classic route on SW face

 
South-West face topo
Aiguillette du Lauzet SW face topo









Davin Route Report – UIAA scale

Summit altitude: m. 2611
D, max V UIAA
Climbing length: 250 m.
Exposure: South-West
First ascent: Abbots Davin and Blanc in 1942
Starting point: Pont de l’Alpe m. 1668

The greatest classic route in the range of the V grade UIAA in Cerces Group. The climb is beautiful on very good limestone running on a steep face.
A curious peculiarity: the first ascent was realized by the two abbots Davin and Blanc during the II World War.

From the bottom of the tower scramble a bit along the grassy gully, then exit it towards left to a saddle (cairn), where a large ledge hanging over the bottom of the tower starts. Follow the ledge towards left (cairns), then head toward right to a narrow rocky gully (pegs and slings). Rope up.
Climb the rocky gully. Traverse towards left on easy ground and climb directly towards a bolt.
From here 8 pitches re-equipped with bolts and following a direct line on very fine limestone lead to a narrow ledge which exit the ending wall towards left. An abseil lead to a wide scree gully. Scramble on the gully, reaching an obvious saddle. Easy rocks lead to the beautiful summit. Summit cross.

If you are lucky you can see an ibex on the top; it’s surprising to meet him after having climbed a steep rocky tower...but the opposite side is easy, so ibexes can reach the summit simply scramble on.....



On Davin route, Aiguillette du Lauzet
Route Davin
The Davin route's fine limestone
Steep limestone on the route Davin
Fall's colours on the return's path
The descent to Val Guisane


Descent: from the summit scramble down back to the saddle, then head to right descending along easy slopes, leading to a wide saddle where a good path starts going down to the starting point.

Other routes on SW and S faces

 
A surprising meeting on a steep tower
A surprising meet on the summit after a climb on steep wall!!!


South-West Face

- Les beaux quartiers TD+, F6b, 300 m. , modern route, bolts
- Voie de l’Etoile TD+, F6b/A0, 300 m., modern route, bolts

South Face

- Pilier SW TD, V+, A2, 200 m., trad route, pegs
- La ligne oublièe TD+, 6b, 150 m., modern route, spaced bolts
- No future ED+, 6c+, 150 m., modern route, spaced bolts
- Magnifica ossessione TD+, 6b, 150 m., spaced bolts
- Il Muro del Pianto ED, 7a+/A1, 150 m. spaced bolts

Red tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.

When to climb

Best season goes from June to October.

Meteo

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Guidebooks and maps

 
 Oisans Noveau, Oisan Sauvage , Guidebook
 
 
Cerces map
 

“Oisans Noveau, Oisans Sauvage”, Book East by Jean Michel Cambon

Oisans Noveau, Oisan Sauvage

Images

Surprising!!! An ibex on the summit!Aiguillette du Lauzet SW FaceAiguillette du LauzetA surprising meeting on a steep towerA flower springing out from the limestone (Campanula cochleariifolia)Shadow coming down on Guisane ValleySouth-West face topo
Aiguillette du LauzetOn Davin route, Aiguillette du LauzetThe Davin route\'s fine limestoneFall\'s colours on the return\'s path Aiguillette du Lauzet South face"Oisans Noveau, Oisan Sauvage", GuidebookCerces map