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Tour Termier
Mountain/Rock

Tour Termier

 
Tour Termier

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Briançonnais, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.05515°N / 6.42503°E

Object Title: Tour Termier

County: Oisans

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 10072 ft / 3070 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Jun 20, 2012 / Jun 14, 2014

Object ID: 796247

Hits: 1600 

Page Score: 89.01%  - 28 Votes 

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Overview

 
Tour Termier West and South faces
Tour Termier West and South faces




Tour Termier

A magnificent peak Dolomites-style far away from Dolomites


Tour Termier is a beautiful limestone peak lying in the West-end of Cerces Massif, a small group in the French Western Alps rising North-West from the town of Briançon. These summits, offering several superb and often difficult climbing routes, are well-known also by the Italian mountaineers and climbers by means of their relative closeness to the Piedmont and the town of Turin. On Tour Termier the limestone is truly spectacular, sometimes reddish and finely carven.

Getting There

 
Tour Termier map
 


ROAD ACCESS

The starting point of the approach-trail is situated along the road to Col du Galibier m. 2642, which starts from Col du Lautaret m. 2057, an important road pass on the N91, connecting Briançon with Grenoble.

- From Turin (Italy)

Follow the A32-E70 Motorway entering Val di Susa and exit to Oulx, reach Cesana Torinese and Claviere, then Colle del Monginevro m. 1854, on Italy-France border; from here the road N94 descents to Briançon. From Briançon follow the road N91 towards Val Guisane, reaching Chantemerle and Monetier les Bains, then the Col du Lautaret m. 2057; leave the main road and turn to right following the road to Col du Galibier. Park the car in a pull-out m. 2514, near the last hairpin before reaching Col du Galibier (about 130 km. from Turin).

- From Grenoble (France)

Follow the road N85 to Vizille, then the road N91 rising to Col du Lautaret; reach the Col du Lautaret m. 2057 and from here leave the main road, turning to left on the road to Col du Galibier. Parking in a pull-out m. 2514, near the last hairpin before reaching Col du Galibier (about 100 km. from Grenoble).

 
Cerces Massif - A  Table d orientation
A "Table d'Orientation"






WALKING ACCESS TO W AND S FACES

From the hairpin a mainly level trail (blue marks) is starting towards East, leading below the tower after about 2 km. A steep scree is rising to the starting point of the routes. About 1 hour from the pull-out.

West and South faces routes overview

 
A slab on Ponant Neuf
A deep slab on Ponant Neuf

 
Tour Termier, Ponant Neuf route topo
Ponant Neuf


W and S faces routes overview (from left to right), French scale:

WEST FACE

- Voie du Ponant TD, F5b, 6a/A1, 200 trad
- Termi-nèé TD+, F6b+,6a+obbl., 300 m., bolts
- Ponant Neuf TD, F6a+, F5c obbl., 300 m.. bolts
- Le Feu Sacré ED, F7a, 6a+ obbl. 300 m., bolts
- Oxygène ED, F7c, 6c obbl., expo, bolts
- Les Guepes ED, F6b, A2, 200 m., trad route, pegs

SOUTH FACE

- L’incontinent ABO-, F7b+, 6b obbl., 220 m., bolts
- Ici mieux qu’en face ABO-, F7b+, 6c+ obbl., 250 m., bolts
- Marmotta Impazzita ED-, F6c, F6b obbl., 300 m., bolts
- Allo la Terre TD, F6a, F5c+obbl., 350 m., bolts
- Termier-Tière D, F5c+, F5b obbl., 350 m., bolts

Ponant Neuf, a great route

 
 Gas  on Ponant Neuf sixth pitch s traverse
Ponant Neuf: the sixth pitch's traverse



Ponant Neuf route report – French scale
Summit altitude: m. 3070
TD, max F6a+, F5c obbl.
Climbing length: 300 m.
Exposure: W
Equipment: bolts
First ascent: Jean-Michel Cambon and Gerard Fiaschi 1999
Starting point: last hairpin on the road to Col du Galibier


A spectacular route on excellent limestone; the rock is grey and reddish, finely carven with surprising inlay. The climb, running on a very steep wall, is always athletic and highly satisfactory. This wall, facing West, may be sometimes a bit cold, as a matter of fact the sun is lightening the route in the very first afternoon. West face, on the left-hand side, and South face, on the right one, are divided by an obvious great and white corner.
A curious particular: marmots living around the tower are always hungry and greedy, eating every objects they can get.

From the upper scree skirt the tower’s basal rocks towards left, reaching the starting point of the route, situated on the left of the great white corner, and on the left of a great flake, the starting point of the very hard “Le Feu Sacré”...

L1 – A short pitch on a little chimney-crack and a short wall. 3b, then 4b.
L2 – Another short wall (5c), then a steep slab, slanting to left (5a) and leading to a lightly overhanging wall. Climb the wall and a short flake, 5c then 5a.
L3 – Climb a slab with few holds, 5b+, then a crack slanting left, 5a, and finally traverse left on a delicate slab, 5c.
L4 – Climb a sequence of little walls on the left-hand side of a pillar, 4c; some easy steps lead to a belay on a ledge below another pillar, cut on the right by a chimney-gully.
L5 – Climb the pillar 4b, then traverse the gully towards right and climb a steep grey wall, 5b+, then 6a; reach a grassy ramp and climb it to a stance (common belay with “Le Feu Sacré”).
L6 – Climb a wall slants to left, then traverse left 12 m. following a narrow and shallow ledge, 5b then 4c. Short pitch.
L7 – A grey slab, 5c+; belay inside a corner. Another short pitch.
L8 – Climb a steep reddish wall on the right of the corner, then go slants to right, 5b.
L9 – Climb a narrow corner, or its right face, 4c, then 5b, then some short steep walls, 5b.
L10 – Towards right climb a steep slab, 5b+, then a lightly overhanging wall, 5c; climb a little overhang, 6a, a grey slab, 5b, and finally a steep wall, 6a+, crux. Belay on a ledge.
L11 – Climb a short steep wall at first towards right, 6a again, then straight, 5b. Enter a corner and climb it getting to the summit. 5a.

 
Near Col Termier
Near Col Termier



Descent: it’s possible rapping along an equipped line near “Ponant Neuf”, but it’s better going down towards East – the opposite side of the route - by a short climb (rapping possible), then by walk towards left (North) entering a valley and follow it to Col Termier. From the col scramble down the West side (exposed and steep trail) reaching the basal scree. 1,45 hour from the summit to the parking. This descent is not advisable in early summer, when Col Termier is snow-covered.

Red tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking.

When to climb

West face is sometimes cold. Best season goes from July to September.

Where to stay

Hotels and Gite d'etapes in Val Guisane; hotels, gite d'etape, renting rooms and campings in Briançon.

Meteo

METEO FRANCE

METEO ALPI

Guidebooks and maps

 
Oisans Nouveau Oisans Sauvage guidebook
 


“Oisans Noveau, Oisans Sauvage - Livre Est” by Jean Michel Cambon

"Alpes Françaises du Nord - Escalade Plaisir" by Hervé Galley - Edition Olizane

Map

"Ecrins - Haut Dauphiné" 1:50.000 Ed. Didier Richard

Images

"Gas" on Ponant Neuf sixth pitch\'s traverseTour TermierA slab on Ponant NeufTour Termier, Ponant Neuf route topoNear Col TermierTour Termier West and South facesTour Termier from approach trail
Oisans Nouveau Oisans Sauvage guidebookCerces Massif - A "Table d\'orientation" Tour Termier map