Arribas Amoebas, 5.10+PG, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

MP.com rates Arribas Amoebas and Full Circle (Entrance Dome), two of the more popular 5.10’s in this canyon, as both 5.10+, but Arribas is a significant step up in grade and sustained climbing.  The first pitch is 170’ of the most sustained 5.10- edge climbing at Cochise, every move bordering at the grade.  MP.com calls it 5.9+. the local guide calls it 5.10. It is a more challenging and sustained lead than the first 5.10 pitch on Warpaint.  This first pitch features sustained edge climbing along with thoughtful movement and some precision sequences through 11 well-spaced bolts.  The guide references buttonhead hardware which is unfortunate because the author is confusing Arribas with Ancient Astronauts located two routes to the right.  Both of these routes have the same, but independent, looking starts, both described as a tree leaning against a rightward flake that gets you up to their first bolts.  So many, as noted on MP.com, end up starting on the ancient hardware of Ancient Astronauts which is dangerous.  These are spinner hangers on rusty buttonheads via chossy rock as of 2023.   Rather a more defined explanation of the start is to climb the 2nd route to the right of the obvious arch.  Eleven bolts on sustained edges through 170’ means this pitch is not for the budding 5.10 sport climber although the rock and movement are great.  The 2nd pitch has the crux of the climb through the first several bolts via steep slab.  The crux is well protected with only four bolts total and climbing at the grade is short.  The 3rd pitch is the most fun for a trad climber.  A mix of gear and bolts, you traverse way out left and pull over a fun overhang on somewhat polished rock.  The belay is a single old bolt with a few smaller pieces of gear.  The last pitch is a junk pitch, but gets you past a slung tree and up to the top fixed anchor.

Head up canyon as you would for Entrance, Exit, Wasteland and Out of Towner’s Domes.  Continue along a climber’s trail on the north side of the wash.  When you get to a wide bleached out drainage coming down from Exit and Wasteland Domes, cross over and follow intermittent cairns up the grassy slopes below Out of Towner’s broad south face.  Once you get to the base of the formation, turn left and follow the wall west through brush and canopy to quite a few bolted lines in a row.  Arribas is the 2nd to the right of an obvious arch.  It is surround by two 5.11+ bolted routes.  It is 5.10 because it has a lot more edges to work with which is obvious when you look up, but this whole section of the wall is steep.    Refer to previous paragraph to make sure you do not start on Ancient Astronauts as the local guide description has led several to do. 

Route Description

1st Pitch- 170’-5.10/ Walk up the ramp, left to right, and then make a few moves before making your first clip.  From there it is edges and side pulls, sustained in the 5.10- range.  Near the end, run it out over slab to a comfortable ledge with fixed rap chains (in good condition as of 2023).

2nd Pitch- 105’-5.10+/ Trend up and right through two bolts, the crux move of the day on slab.  Sustained through two more clips and then it eases way off up a water streak with features.  Trend back up and left up a grassy crack to a comfortable ledge with a modern cold shut rap.

3rd Pitch- 100’-5.10-/ The local guide calls this 5.10- and MP.com calls it 5.9PG.  I do not believe it to be PG but it is more 5.10- than 5.9.  Follow the crack up and right from the belay for a short length before aiming for the bolts that traverse up and left.  Bolts higher up taking on a layback roof are on a different route named Out of Towners.  After the 2nd clip, traverse straight left into a corner system with gear and one jam.  Climb up this right facing corner and turn the small roof above, again with gear.  This is the crux as the rock is polished at your feet.  There is small to medium gear directly below this roof pull.  Stop at a lone aging bolt (2023) and build a gear belay off of small to medium gear.  There is too much traversing, even with double rope management, to combine these last two pitches.

4th Pitch- 100’-5.7/ Traverse up and right on well featured rock to a significant weakness.  Climb this easy weakness past a slung tree.  Continue up easy ground up and left to a fixed rap above a large prickly pear cactus (2023).

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Three double 60m rope raps make it back to your packs. Top of pitch 4 to the top of pitch 2 to the top of pitch 1 to the ground.  MP.com says walk off as of 2023, but these rap stations have been there quite a few years. Would be foolish to walk off in terms of efficiency. 

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes.  The first two pitches are essentially sport climbs (11 draws and/or slings).  The 3rd pitch requires a single rack to #2.   South facing wall, receives sun all day.