We Expect You, 5.9, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Dow leading the crux (1st) pitch

Mount Chaktar is the largest of the four domed features located directly north of Sheepshead in the Cochise Stronghold. From Sheepshead north they go Muttonhead, Mallethead, Hootgoat Mountain, Mount Chaktar and Boot Hill.  Muttonhead and Chaktar are the two largest and both have routes similar in size to those on Sheepshead. We Expect You is one of the better long lines on the west face and is fully bolted (although the new guide (2017) mentions optional gear, the entire line is well bolted to the top). To descend you rap Ghosts of the Past (5.10-) which would be a good objective to combine with We Expect You to get in eight pitches of total climbing.  In older guides you might find an R rating on this route, but it has been retro bolted to modern standards as of 2018.  

Dow leading the 4th pitch

The first pitch is by far the most sustained pitch on the route. It starts off full on for the grade off the deck through 14! bolts. There are several small off balance type crux moves with a side pull here or there. The sequences are fairly exact making some of this first pitch lean more 5.9+. The second pitch has one slab move that is as challenging as anything on the first pitch after the first few clips. But most of it is 5.8 slab through 10 bolts. The third pitch takes the improbable roof above with easy stemming through five bolts to a large ledge (50’). As soon as you land the ledge, there is a fixed belay on the left end that starts off the last pitch with one move at the grade (5.8) and then easier climbing to the top fixed anchor (11 bolts). I explored going to the summit, but it does not top out above you, rather you would have to unrope and scramble up quite a bit more than what you can see. The top anchor is below the top of the wall by about 30’.

Hike as you would for Sheepshead. Continue contouring around Sheepshead and then Muttonhead and then Mallethead. There is an obvious notch between Mallethead and a mini dome down hill. Follow cairns (2018) up into and across that notch.   At the notch will be the first close up view of Chaktar's prominent west face. Continue traversing on a faint climbers trail to the middle of the west face of Chaktar. There is a massive shaded left facing corner on the upper middle west face. You are climbing a line to the left of that corner out on a bolted slab. The start for We Expect You is not easy to discern.  As soon as the trail hits the middle of the west face, you are looking to cut back up and right through some trees and vegetation to start about another 30’ up the west face.  More than likely you will first locate the bolts for Ghosts of the Past. Back track a few meters and go up slope 30’ to the start of We Expect You (photo).

Route Description

2nd Pitch

1st Pitch- 115’- 5.9/ This would be the first pitch I found in the new guide that felt slightly sandbagged by Cochise standards (much of the grading in the new guides (2017) has been adjusted up). Follow the bolts up to the small roof/corner.  Some interesting moves up the right side first and then traversing back left might be the crux of the pitch although it is sustained most the way to the fixed anchor. Above this roof/corner, you get more into slab, side pulls and edges. A very good sport pitch by Cochise standards. 14 clips.

2nd Pitch- 110’- 5.9/ Continue up the pure slab with more of an obvious crux at a blank spot about half way. Not near as sustained as the first pitch. 10 clips.

3rd Pitch- 50’- 5.8-/ A fun and relatively easy pitch of stemming up through the improbable right side of the massive roof. The fixed belay is fairly immediate once atop the large ledge. The next pitch climbs the broad arete up the left side of the large ledge. 5 clips.

4th Pitch- 160’- 5.8/ The first few moves off the ledge are the crux (5.8). From there this pitch runs up the broad arete on easy ground to the fixed rap/belay. The true summit is quite a ways further up then what it looks like from the anchor. It is an easy scramble if you want to go for it and 5th class it back down to the rap. 11 clips.

Climbing Sequence

Descent Four single 60m rope raps straight down via Ghosts of the Past. 1st to a large ledge to rap anchor climbers left. The rest are fairly obvious. Essential Gear 60m Rope. 14 draws. This route is west facing.