Warpath, 5.9PG, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Warpath Dome is the home of many dikes, one of which essentially runs the entire length of the northwest face.  A good portion of this waste line high dike makes up the unique 2^nd pitch of Warpath.  The 1st pitch is made up of a decent wide corner via good rock.  The 3^rd pitch starts on a cool vertical dike that leads to large patina.  Overall, this makes for a great moderate outing.  Despite the 2^nd pitch’s PG rating, the climbing on that pitch is below grade for the most part.  The dike portion offers very positive climbing.  I did make the mistake on this route of climbing all the way north to the arete via the upper dike and then climbing the Left Arete of Warpath route (5.10-R).   The local guide was poorly written regarding that pitch in my opinion.  What is true is that the vertical seem you are going to finish pitch two on (shallow left facing corner) is not easily seen from below.  Once I was on the arete way out left I saw it.  I have marked a photo showing the path of the route.  The local guide (2021) also has a great topo photo showing the proper seam, but it is located on a page with an advertisement.  Rapping back down to do the seam as well as the third pitch was worth it.  The third pitch of Warpath is quite unique with easily slung chicken heads up a vertical dike for a few meters before the angle kicks back. 

Drive from Sheepshead heading for the Whale Dome sector of Cochise. Before you make the turn eastward for the Whale Dome and Westworld area, look for the formation of Warpath Dome, west face, on the ridge line to the east (photo).  Park at a 2-3 car pullout on the east side of the road.  Pick up a faint (2021) relatively new climber’s trail heading east along the fence.  Follow it into the wash and up the main gully to the southwest shoulder of Warpath.  Descend north along the west fact to a large dead tree and significant right facing corner in short order.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 80’-5.9/ Climb the obvious and clean right facing corner to a stance up and right to build a gear anchor.  The crux is the short squeeze section in the middle.  Traverse right below a roof and set up a belay at a stance. 

2^nd Pitch- 160’-5.7+PG/ Traverse the dike out left below grade slinging features.  Soon after clipping the lone bolt at about midway, you need to start looking for the road of least resistance (crux) on the slab and chicken heads above.  Crossover a 2^nd horizontal dike and locate a short left facing corner.  There are not two bolts on the traverse as the locale guide suggests (2021).  And do not traverse the 2^nd dike all the way left to a corner on the arete.  Rather search for a non-descript corner above that is hard to see unless you are directly below it or to the left.    Do a small to medium gear belay near the top of this corner at a semi-hanging belay. 

3^rd Pitch- 130’-5.9/ A fun pitch following a vertical dike straight up from the top of the corner.  Sling knobs and clip one bolt up in the huecos.  Belay from the sub summit.  If you trend right, you will find a fixed rap on a different route in which to belay from. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Scramble down south and then back east in a corridor.  At the east end of this corridor, start to descend a vegetated gully.  Near the bottom of the gully, circumvent back to the base of the Crackathon routes.  Your packs are an additional 10 minutes down the hill from there.  The walk off is relatively quick and painless and allows you to add a few of the Crackathon pitches to the day.

Essential Gear

Single from micro to #4.  Plenty of long slings to sling features.  Double ropes if you want to rap the wall.  Haul shoes if you want to walk off. True west facing route.