Wind Madness, 5.11-, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Although this route appears to have seen little to any traffic (a bit grainy), with the exception of Abracadaver, Knead Me and the Labyrinth, Wind Madness is my favorite route in the Rockfellow group (and that coming from a crack/trad climber).  The route is a bolted sport climb for the most part, with only three points of gear used on our ascent.  The position and sustained movement on this route make it admirable by both sport and trad climbers alike.  This is the best route to achieve the true summit of Chay Desa Tsay. 

Wind Madness starts just to the left of the west exit/entrance of Inner Passage, a popular scramble through the formations.  Hike around End Pinnacle.  Once the trail ends, look to boulder hop up a treed rock gully.  Continue boulder hopping, with a hint of 5^th class, until you reach the treed sandy alcove located between Chay Desa Tsay and Rockfellow Domes.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 75’-5.11-/ A sustained pitch at the grade through 7 bolts and 2 pieces of gear (#.3 and #2).  You start (#.3) on the short east facing section of the buttress that covers up the west entrance to the Inner Passage.  Steep stemming over slight overhung ground with solid features is the start.  Once you land the grainy buttress itself (#2), the climbing becomes more edge and slab centric.  Fun, thoughtful movement through the bolts to a fixed and comfortable belay.

2^nd Pitch- 80’-5.5/ Climb up a meter or two on slab through a bolt.  Move the belay along the ridge above, past a set of fixed rap hangers (2022), and to the northern edge of the ledge and belay off of a live tree (guide references a dead tree). 

3^rd Pitch- 155’-5.10/ An excellent featured lichen face awaits.  Climb the sustained and steep positive edges forever, through a set of rap hangers and belay off the second set just below the broad ledge above.  Fully bolted through 16 clips. 

4^th Pitch- 145’-5.10/ Possibly the most scenic pitch of climbing in the entire Stronghold.  Move the belay along the broad ridge to the southeast and the base of the final headwall of Chay Desa Tsay.  Rockfellow Dome’s massive and blank western wall in your presence at all times, makes the scene surreal.  Walk a #4 up the short wide crack and extend it as you leave it to traverse up and right to the first bolt.  From there the route is well bolted.  Climb the southeast facing steep face of the headwall on similar plates and edges that were climbed on the 3^rd pitch.  Wonderful and exposed movement eventually lands you back left on the arete for a short bit.  Then back right and up to the sub summit.  A belay anchor is in one pothole and a rap anchor is in another.  A bit grainy, but excellent exposure and pitch!

5^th Pitch- 30’-5.8/ Move the belay along the narrow ridge to the east side of the summit block and set up belay at the far end (SE corner).  Stem up a short chimney and clip one bolt on the left wall and summit.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make a 40’ rap down the south side of the summit block.  Walk back west to the rap anchor at the west end.  Make a full 70m rope rap back to the base of the 4^th pitch.  Walk back to the top of the 3^rd pitch.  There is a modern pro bolt (2022) to assist with you reaching the rap anchor.  Make two single rope raps down the 3^rd pitch.  On the second one, continue rapping straight down to the boulders below and locate the last rap which takes you down the south end of these boulders.  Scramble down a gully through trees to return to your packs in short order. 

Essential Gear

70m rope.  A #.3 to protect climbing off the ground to safely reach the first bolt (local guide references using a stick clip? but that was written by a sport climber no doubt, there is a perfect crack staring you in the face); a #2 finds a placement on the 1^st pitch as well; a #4 helps with runout on the 4^th pitch.  True west facing route with the exception of the start.  Gets sun from noon on during most of the winter.