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Page Type: Route

Location: Arizona, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 31.93530°N / 109.991°W

Object Title: Warpaint

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: III 5.10c

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Jan 11, 2006 / Jan 12, 2006

Object ID: 168212

Hits: 3421 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Follow directions on main page under Getting There - specifically approach information for the west face of Westworld Dome. Approach time from trailhead is about 30-45 minutes.

Route Description

This route is touted as an area classic and it is fun! It's most memorable quality is the sustained nature of climbing. The climbing itself is a mix of friction and nubbin pulling.

Pitch 1: 5.10, 160 feet. Start up the bolted high angle slab just right of the foot of the buttress (at least three bolts clearly visible from ground). The start is harder than it looks (friction and some crimpers). Going eases slightly past the second bolt but gets hard again higher up. Crux hits about 2/3rds of the way up (high angle friction slab). Lower 3/4ths of the pitch is well bolted. Climb past a small tree off on your left and continue up lower angle terrain (a vague arête) with no bolts (but there’s opportunity or two for some trad gear) to a two bolt anchor at the edge of a large ledge.

Move the belay about 30 feet up and slightly left on the large ledge (class 2) aiming for the base of a 30-foot dihedral (note the bolt anchor just above the dihedral). Belay from a small tree on the ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.8, 40 feet. This is the only give away pitch of the route. Climb the right facing dihedral with a widening crack in it. Mantle onto a sloping narrow ledge and move left. Belay from a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10-, 100 feet. From belay stance, climb straight up passing one bolt. Above, a shallow, flaring groove offers a few cam placements. Pick up bolts 30 feet higher. Follow the bolts just about straight up. Going consists of a series of hard moves (friction and crimper climbing) separated by lower angle slab sections. Belay from bolted anchor at a sloping stance with a “foot hole”.

Pitch 4: 5.10, 100 feet. From belay, move right past a bolt (high angle friction slab) aiming for a left facing dihedral. Climb the 20 foot dihedral (flaring groove offers some cam placements) past a bolt. At top of dihedral, step onto the right wall (good jug for hands and let your legs swing out) and mantle onto slab above. Follow bolts slightly left and up on high angle friction slab (crux of pitch). Belay at bolted anchor on a sloping ledge.

Pitch 5: 5.10, 80 feet. Move up and right past two bolts. These first two clips are very hard I thought (as hard as anything on pitch 1) – shallow, crystal filled finger pockets. Going eases slightly past the second bolt. Follow more bolts up the easing slab (in the huge left facing, green lichen covered dihedral). Belay from bolts at top of dihedral.

Rap the route with two ropes. Once you get to top of pitch 2, rap straight down to the ground.

Essential Gear

Two ropes.
Double Aliens from green to red (possibly 3 reds).
Single Camalots from #0.75 to #3 (#1 - #3 were used only on the 5.8 pitch I think).

Route Overview Photos

More Route Photos

More Route Photos


Belaying from top of pitch 5...Shirley nearing the top of...Shirley topping out on pitch...WarpaintShirley following the easy...Looking down at the lower...Beginning the lead of pitch 4...
Beginning the lead of pitch...Shirley topping out on a...Shirley following upper half...Beginning the lead of pitch 3...I lost my head while leading...Shirley nearing the top of...Looking back from the...
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