Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
40.37584°N / 111.69044°W |
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering |
Season:
|
Spring |
|
Time Required:
|
Most of a day |
|
Rock Difficulty:
|
Class 3 |
|
Difficulty:
|
Moderate |
|
Overview
Probably only possible with snow unless you want to traverse around a lot of cliffs. Head up Battle Creek Canyon to the Great Western Trail, turn right. Within a quarter mile you'll cross a very large gully. This is the Battle Creek North Fork route. The next big one, just before approaching the Baldy shoulder, is your ticket.Getting There
Battle Creek Canyon is in Pleasant Grove, 1700 East 200 South.If you have an ATV or snowmobile (depending on the snowpack), you might try driving around the north end of Timp and through Sagebrush Flats to save the first 3,000' hike. NOTE: Extreme avalanche danger frequent all around this mountain and there's a gate that may not let you through till later in the year.
Later in the year when the snow is gone...forget all about the west face! It's loose rock, thick brush, and cliff bands - a great route if you want to suffer.
Route Description
Go straight up. It's fairly steep and sustained, with some sections steeper than others.Be sure to check avalanche conditions beforehand and as you go along (www.avalanche.org/~uac - only updated through the main skiing part of the season). When avalanches are possible, you should probably stick to the ridges or you just shouldn't be here anyway.
At the top where the drainage runs out, veer left. Either climb the extremely steep section to the right of the Direct West Ridge cliffs (I'm not saying I recommend it, though! Read the trip report "The Joy of Misery" for details and photos) or traverse left (north) above the first large cliff band to a gentler slope (I believe) between two large cliffs (this traverse is around 10,800' and right on top of the wide cliff band near the top).
You could also swing clear around to the Battle Creek North Fork which is a lot easier and safer.
Essential Gear
Standard mountaineering gear. Axe, crampons, beacon, probe, shovel, water, food, extra clothing and, depending on avalanche conditions, a decent life insurance policy.External Links
Timp Direct WestPhotos at The Joy of Misery trip report