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Äbeni Flue
Mountain/Rock

Äbeni Flue

 
Äbeni Flue

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Bernese Alps, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50855°N / 7.95170°E

Object Title: Äbeni Flue

Activities: Mountaineering

Elevation: 12999 ft / 3962 m

 

Page By: UlrichPrinz, il.rocciatore

Created/Edited: Oct 30, 2001 / Mar 17, 2013

Object ID: 150648

Hits: 16920 

Page Score: 79.21%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

The Äbeni Flue is a less known neighbour of the famous Jungfrau. Together with the Gletscherhorn (3983m) to the NE and the Mittaghorn (3892m) to the SW, its N Face forms part of the great Lauterbrunnen Wall, which is nearly 1000m high and offers great ice routes.

On previous maps of the area and in older guidebooks and literature, the Äbeni Flue is also refered to as Ebnefluh or Ebenefluh.

The Äbeni Flue offers interesting climbing for all types of climbers. The impressive, broad, steep and icy N Face is an interesting ice climb for experienced mountaineers. The gentle slopes of the SW Flank are ideally for starting alpinists or ski tourers, which can reach the start of the climb easily and without much effort from the Jungfraujoch.



If you find any errors or outdated information on this page, please contact one of the owners of this page. Additional information or summit logs are very welcome to improve the quality of this page.

Routes

  • SW Flank - F (2 to 3 hours)

  • SSE Ridge - AD (5 hours)

  • N Ridge - D (7 to 8 hours)

  • N Face - D+/TD (5 to 8 hours)

  • NW Ridge Roti Flue - TD (8 hours)


All routes are described well in Bernese Oberland Selected Climbs by Les Swindin. More information about the route through the N Face can be found in Berner Oberland Die 100 schönsten Touren by H Grossen (1989).

Getting There

The normal route of the Äbeni Flue is most frequently climbed from the Hollandiahütte (SAC - 3240m - 100 places - Phone: 0041 (0)27 939 11 35), but is also accessible from the Konkordiahütte (SAC - 2850m - 165 places - Phone: 0041 (0)33 855 13 94) or the Jungfraubahn. The Hollandiahütte is located about 60m above the Lötschenlücke and can be reached from Fafleralop in the Lötschental in 6 to 8 hours. The Konkardiahütte is most easily reached from the Jungfraubahn via the Jungfraufirn or in 5 to 6 hours from Fiesch.

The N Face is approached from the Rottalhütte (SAC - 2755m - 45 places - Phone: 0041 (0)33 855 24 45), which can be reached in 5 to 6 hours from Stechelberg.

Berner Oberland can easily be reached by train via Bern and Interlaken. The trains run all to way to Lauterbrunnen (for approach to the Äbeni Flue continu to Stechelberg) or Grindelwald. From both towns the Jungfraubahn runs through the Eiger to the Jungfraujoch.

International Airports are located in Zurich and Basel.

Camping

At Fafleralp in the Lötschental is a campground with basic sanitary facilities.

Around Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen there are several camp site. These are just 2 options.

  • Camping Eigernordwand 0041 (0)33 853 12 42

  • Camping Jungfrau 0041 (0)33 856 20 10

When To Climb

Good conditions are usually found on the Äbeni Flue N Face from June to September, although the face can be climbed year round if you are crazy enough (not recommended). The SW Flank is attended mostly by tourskiers from December to June.

Red Tape

No red tape is required to climb the Äbeni Flue. To all visitors, make sure it keeps that way. Off course it's recommended to be a member of an alpine club to be assuranced for rescue in case of an emergency.

External Links

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-5 of 5    
dmikiUntitled Comment

dmiki

Hasn't voted

Maybe add a map of the Jungfrau region?
Posted Aug 27, 2004 7:44 am
UlrichPrinzRe: Untitled Comment

UlrichPrinz

Hasn't voted

Done that now, thanks for the tip, sorry for the delay
Posted Feb 24, 2006 8:47 am
Fred SpickerUntitled Comment

Fred Spicker

Hasn't voted

The Hollandiahütte link given here does not work.





The new link is HERE
Posted Jan 7, 2006 10:50 pm
UlrichPrinzRe: Untitled Comment

UlrichPrinz

Hasn't voted

Fixed, Thanks!
Posted Feb 24, 2006 8:47 am
NikmanOfficial name

Nikman

Hasn't voted

The official name from the top25 is Äbeni Flue. This name should be integrated here, so someone will find the mountain when searching for the official name on SP.
Posted Apr 30, 2010 5:02 pm

Viewing: 1-5 of 5    

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