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Lauteraarhorn
Mountain/Rock

Lauteraarhorn

 
Lauteraarhorn

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35000°N / 8.08000°E

Object Title: Lauteraarhorn

Elevation: 13261 ft / 4042 m

 

Page By: Mountaindoc

Created/Edited: Apr 9, 2002 / Jul 31, 2003

Object ID: 150939

Hits: 15239 

Page Score: 84.04%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview


The Lauteraarhorn is one of Switzerlands wildest 4000m-peaks ! It stands far away from any civilization and is known to be the most deserted and remote autonomous 4000m-peak in the Alpes ! Combined with the Schreckhorn (4078m) it represents a "twin summit", which invites the experienced mountaineer to try one the Alpes greatest 4000m-peak-traverses ! If you enjoy loneliness in the mountains and if you prefer to meet unique mountaineers, you ought to go to the Lauteraarhorn ! Until 1976 one had to bivy outside to climb the mountain, as there was no hut !

Getting There


One of the most strenuous parts on the way to the summit is the way to its very bottom ! You either approach the mountain from the north via Grindelwald and the Schreckhorn-hut (2529m) or you might reach it via the more popular way from the Grimsel-Pass -- Lake Grimsel -- Unteraar-Glacier -- Finsteraarglacier -- Aar-Bivouac (2731m). The way from the Grimsel-Pass (2112m) to the the Bivouac is long (19km / 900m elevation rise / 7h walk). In the winter/spring it's best to cross the frozen Grimsel-Lake with ski and then traverse the glaciers (only few crevasses). In the summer it's one hell of a long walk along the lake, across the glaciers (dangerous crevasses if snow not totally melted!). The Aar-Bivouac provides matrasses for 17 people with blankets. There is no wood or stove ! Bring your own cooking-gear ! The bivouac is open all year ! There is an emergency telephone !
Coming from the north one takes the normal signed path from Grindelwald to the Schreckhorn-hut (1500m elevation rise / 4-5h walk). It's a great walk to the hut with some ladders and a great view to the north-faces of the "Fiescherhörner".
Another possibility is the Lauteraar-Hut (2392m). This hut is located at the north shore of the Unteraar-Glacier, between the Grimsel-Pass and the Aar-Bivouac. It doesn't serve as a practical base to climb the Lauteraarhorn, since it stretches the way to the summit insuperable. For those of you, who like a 10hour climb to the top, feel free to use it...

Red Tape


There are several (more or less free) parking-lots on the Grimsel-Pass ("Grimsel-Hospiz") and also possibilities to spend a (cheap) night. No fees to climb the mountain...

When To Climb


It's best to climb the mountain in the late spring / early summer (april-may-june), when there is enough hard snow and neve in the S-face-couloir ! For superior skiers it's possible to ski down this couloir (max. 48°) !! It's best to try a ski-ascend (and descend...) in April, May or early June (depending on the amount of snow in the preceeding winter !!). We attempted it in late June and saw a lack of snow in the rocky mid section of the couloir !
If you want to climb the mountain from the Schreckhorn-hut it's best to wait for the warmth of the summer to melt some of the ice&snow on the ridges! You might want to choose july / august / september for an attempt !

Camping


Camping outside in Switzerland is not really allowed, but once you leave the Grimsel-Pass area, no one cares, as you are so far away from any civilization...

Mountain Conditions


There is no one, who sits in the Aar-Bivouac all year long to give information about the Lauteraarhorn.... Go there and find out !

Maps and Guide-Books needed


Check for necessary maps (topographical maps from the swiss bureau for topography) and guide books (from the swiss alpine club, "SAC") in every route-description !

External Links

Additions and Corrections

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JScolesUntitled Comment

JScoles

Voted 10/10

One of the earlier 4k peaks in the Alps to be climbed, being bagged in the summer of 1842. It was actually climbed by quite by accident as the first party was aiming for the Shreckhorn but ended up looking at it across the ridge on to summit of this peak. The party was made up of two scientists, Eduard Desor and Christian Girard with the guides Melchior Bannholzer and Jakob Leuthold. They were in the area in the summer of 1842 examining the glaciers and local geology.
Posted Apr 9, 2002 8:17 am
dmikiUntitled Comment

dmiki

Hasn't voted

Maybe add a map of the Jungfrau region?
Posted Aug 27, 2004 8:01 am

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