Big T, 5.10d, 4 Pitches

Overview

Big T is a must do route via Sandia Mountains standard and is located among a variety of multi pitch lines up and down Echo Canyon.  Although Big T is the first published route in the Bush Shark Tower region of Echo canyon that you come to via approach, there are a few bolts heading up an unpublished route on a wall just to the left of it.  Therefore, look for the second line you can distinguish bolts on from the ground for this area.  Big T is also distinguishable by a steep start through a bolt off the deck, followed by a short shallow corner and then another clip.  Expect typical Sandia climbing, involving mostly face climbing utilizing any cracks for supplemental pro.  But the variety of sustained movement through the first three pitches offers good climbing.

This first 30’ off the ground is the 2^nd crux of the climb and rated 5.10c on the published topo. The climbing eases after this as you follow well-spaced bolts straight up to a fixed rap on a comfortable ledge.  Five bolts in total with supplemental small gear.  The 2^nd pitch starts out through several bolts and then traverses right to a bolt.  The moves above this bolt are the crux of this pitch, rated 5.10a on the topo. There are two bolted single pitch 5.12+ routes on either side of this 2nd pitch.  Stay in the middle.  Continue up into a hanging corner and stem up through a short fun trad section.  Pull out left and then back up and right to a fixed rap at a semi hanging belay. The first 30’ of the 3^rd pitch is the crux of the route, labeled as 5.10d on the topo.  Clip an immediate bolt and then palm the arete of a shallow left facing corner.  Balance and good foot work are the tools needed to make the moves through the 2^nd bolt.  Move right for a foot rest and clip the third bolt.  Continue up much easier ground with a mix of bolts and gear to another fixed rap.   If your intent is to top out, you can combine the 3^rd and 4^th pitches with a 70m rope.  However, there is no longer (2021) a fixed rap atop pitch four.  You can sling a large tree however and make four raps to the ground or walk off northeast to return to the parking area.

Park at the main parking area at the top of the La Luz trail.  Take the La Luz down switchbacks to the col where you can turn left for the tram or right down the mountain on the main La Luz.  Instead, find a climber’s trail that drops down straight ahead and to the left.  Hike down this trail over deadfall and pass Techweeny Buttress (Crackula, 5.8) on your left.  Continue down the climbers trail passing the next wall, that does have a bolt (unpublished) on it, and look for the start of Big T on the next wall on your left.  You can easily spot the first bolt mixed with a shallow corner. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 100’-5.10c/ This first 30’ off the ground is the 2nd crux of the climb and rated 5.10c on the published topo.   The climbing eases after this as you follow well-spaced bolts straight up to a fixed rap on a comfortable ledge.  Five bolts in total with supplemental small gear.  The crux movement is reachy and balancy sport climbing off the ground.

2^nd Pitch- 110’-5.10a/ The 2nd pitch starts out through several bolts and then traverses right to a bolt.  The slab/face moves above this bolt are the crux of this pitch, rated 5.10a on the topo.  Continue up into a hanging corner and stem up through a short fun trad section.  Pull out left and then back up and right to a fixed rap at a semi hanging belay. There is a bolted 5.12d route coming in from the right (Blood in the Water).  There is also a 2^nd pitch 5.12+ variation bolted up and left (Curfew).

3^rd/4^th Pitches- 210’-5.10d/ The first 30’ of the 3rd pitch is the crux of the route, labeled as 5.10d on the topo.  Clip an immediate bolt and then palm the short arete of a shallow left facing corner.  Balance and good foot work are the tools needed to make the moves through the 2nd bolt.  Move right for a rest and make another challenging move up to clip the third bolt.  Continue up much easier ground with a mix of bolts and gear to another fixed rap.   If your intent is to top out, you can combine the 3rd and 4th pitches with a 70m rope.  The 4^th pitch is mostly 5^th class.  However, there is no longer (2021) a bolted fixed rap atop pitch four (as the guide topo and MP.com suggest). 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap the route from the top of pitch 3 with a 60m rope or rap from the large tree atop this wall via a 70m rope or walk off northeast to return to the parking area.

Essential Gear

Single rack from micro to #2.  Half a dozen slings and half a dozen draws.  Route receives shade all morning and at this elevation is normally cool enough to climb all summer regardless of sun.