Excitable Boys, 5.9+, 7 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Excitable Boys was a pleasant surprise in terms of quality rock and climbing relative to the Sandia’s.  I had climbed Chicken Chop Suey, Yucca Flower Tower and the Great Escape the prior two days and my expectations were not high.  The first two pitches, as well as the 3rd-4th, are easy to combine making this a fairly fast route.  The 5.10- corner option on the 2nd pitch is a stellar option to make this a pretty damn good climb.  The 3rd pitch offered a fun crux through a steep layback corner in good rock.  The 6th pitch featured fun stemming and/or off-width climbing at the grade.  Of the first half dozen features I climbed in the Sandia’s, Chimney Canyon offered up the most aesthetic approach and setting, particularly with the fall colors.

Chimney Canyon has one of the more straight-forward approaches relative to the other canyons/walls reached from the Sandia Crest.  From the last switchback climbing/hiking parking area (2020) off the paved road, hike due west to the North Crest Trail.  Hike north a few minutes until you reach a trail intersection.  Take the left most trail (to the right of four posts-2020) back south as it heads down to below the limestone band.  At the next intersection, take a trail that heads southwest.  Several switchbacks lead to an aspen covered flat grassy area.  This is a good spot to leave your pack if you brought one from your vehicle.  Hike south and down into Chimney Canyon which skirts the southern end of Muralla Grande.  As the southwest face of Muralla grows bigger, you will pass the popular route “The Second Coming”.  Contour back north up to a ledge below the prominent right facing corner system that is Excitable Boys.  This is a relatively short approach compared to many in the Sandia’s.

Route Description

1^st -2^nd Pitches- 200’-5.8/ This is sort of a weird start in that you climb out right of a perfect 5.10- dihedral versus climbing in it (I learned later, the corner is an optional start to the route, but not the FA version).   Start up the brushy short faces and mantle just to the left of the large tree.  Clip the two bolt anchor and continue up the crack system to the right of the obvious right facing dihedral.  It meets the dihedral in the upper reaches.  The corner ends at a comfortable belay/ledge with an old (2020) two bolt anchor.

3^rd-4^th Pitches- 200’- 5.9+/ Climb the crack up and left through an obvious bulge (crux of the route).  At the bulge, protect out left in a #.2 horizontal and layback up to a positive hold.  The climbing immediately eases off.  You reach a ledge, climb up and left up through yet another two-bolt anchor.  Clip it and trend back right, below grade, up face climbing to a broad gully on top.

5^th Pitch, 230’- 4th Class/ Scramble up the gully to a broad ledge.

6^th Pitch- 200’- 5.9+/ Climb up left, aiming for the obvious off-width section above.  The awkward entry into the OW is the 2^nd crux of the route.  Take all the big gear you want but the actual OW climbing, after pulling into it, is below grade.  Go through a another full body slot with one move at the grade to conquer.  A small grassy ledge shows up near the end of your rope.

7^th Pitch- 175’- 5.7/ Continue straight up the same corner system until it makes sense to trend right next to a chimney.  Climb up this blocky, easy and loose, ground to the top and sling a block.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

You top out at the flat, grass and aspen laden, area between Murella Grande and the Sandia Crest.  Same spot you should have passed on the way down.

Essential Gear

Double rack from #.3 to #2, single #3. A set of wires, and a few micros and off sets.  If competent at moderate off-width, no other gear is needed, but otherwise take whatever is appropriate.  Southwest facing.  First half of the route is easy to catch in the shade.  Plenty of loose stuff, I would take the helmet on this one. 70m rope is helpful on combining pitches to comfortable belays.