Bush Shark Spire, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Bush Shark Spire offers the best moderate true crack climbing experience in all of the Sandias.  Aviary Overhangs (5.9+) is taller, but its crux is essentially a traverse to face/layback move, typical of most Sandia climbs.  Bush Shark stays in the cracks to the top of its route.  If you extend your placements properly, you can combine its two pitches for one long and fun lead at the grade.  The position of the belay atop this route is also aesthetically pleasing, perched behind the tower above the col with the main wall.  A true 200’ trad climb with no bolts or pitons enroute, which is hard to find in the Sandia Mountains.  The budding trad leader can place all the gear he or she wants on this route.

The first pitch follows an obvious massive right facing corner, in the center of the west face of the tower, up to where you step out of it to the left to a small stance and shared fixed rap with Feeding Frenzy.  The crux of the climb is the start of the 2^nd pitch.  Place a micro nut in a thin seam directly above the belay and make an exposed traverse right and up into the continuation of the same crack system (now left facing).  The climbing eases in short order but is enjoyable to the top. 

Park at the main parking area at the top of the La Luz trail.  Take the La Luz down switchbacks to the col where you can turn left for the tram or right down the mountain on the main La Luz.  Instead, find a climber’s trail that drops down straight ahead and to the left.  Hike down this trail over deadfall and pass Techweeny Buttress (Crackula, 5.8) on your left.  Continue down the climber’s trail passing the next wall, that does have a bolt (unpublished) on it, and look for the start of Big T (5.10d) on the next wall on your left.  You can easily spot the first bolt mixed with a shallow corner.  Continue on and in just a few meters you will be below the middle of the west face of Bush Shark Spire.  There is a bolt line to the left, Feeding Frenzy (5.10c), and a beautiful right facing corner directly above, the first pitch of Bush Shark Spire.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 105’-5.8+/ This pitch is slightly shorter than the length quoted in the guide and longer than quoted on Mp.com.  In fact both pitches are slightly shorter than the topo which does allow you to link them with a 60m rope.  The published guide rates this pitch 5.8+.  It is a beautiful sustained 5.8 lead allowing the budding trad leader to place as much gear as he/she wants.  Hand jam and stem the corner to its terminus which spits you out left to a fixed rap.

2^nd Pitch- 95’-5.9/ The crux of the climb is the start of the 2nd pitch.  Place a micro nut in a thin seam directly above the belay and make an exposed traverse right and up into the continuation of the crack system which is now a left facing corner.  The climbing eases in short order but is enjoyable to the top and fixed rap. 

Descent

Rap the route from the top with a 70m rope or continue up Garden Party, 5.9, to the top of the wall and walk off northeast to return to the parking area.  The last rap has to reach the ground lower than where you started climbing, therefore a 70m rope is safer.  However, with a 60m rope, you can swing climbers right near the end to a small ledge just above the ground.  However, I would not recommend such activity for a novice.

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Single rack from micro to #3 or doubles to #2 if combining pitches.  A selection of micro wires to protect the start of the 2^nd pitch.  A dozen of shoulder length slings or a few more if combining pitches.  Route receives shade all morning and at this elevation is normally cool enough to climb all summer regardless of sun.