Rocky Racoon, 5.7, 2 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This is a great add-on to any of the Chimney Canyon routes.  Descend Chimney Canyon and climb this route and then stay racked up and make a short hike north to any of the Muralla Grande routes, climb to the top of Muralla Grande and walk back to your vehicle from there for a short reasonable day in the Sandias. We combined it with 2^nd Coming and these two pitches were far more interesting than the first two pitches of that route.

Park at the last switchback directly below the communication towers.  Hike due west through the plant (2022) and locate a trail down the west side at the base of a communication tower with red lightning bolts on its transmitters.  Follow the trail south down to an aspen grove on your right before descending Chimney Canyon to the south.  Leave your packs here, rack up and descend the Chimney Canyon trail to its namesake, The Chimney which is a tower formation.  Descend slightly past the Chimney tower on its north side and scramble back up and through brush to its northeast corner, located below a fixed chained rap below a roof.  The route starts just slightly up and right on the true north face, but there are options where ever you prefer to start. 

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 115’-5.7/ Via the guidebook and mp.com, there appears to be a variety of options regarding this 1^st pitch, but the second pitch is defined and you need to end up in an alcove below a block filled chimney regardless.  From directly below a fixed rap on the northeast face, traverse right and up a bit to start on non-descript rock, look for the cleanest of the moss-covered rock on the north face.  Plenty of gear options on both pitches.  If you start here, you will find a variety of decent climbing via hand cracks.  Eventually you need to traverse left across a steep arete on a positive foot lip and do a gear belay in a comfortable alcove below the obvious block filled chimney.

2^nd Pitch- 80’-5.7/ A more challenging and sustained pitch at the grade.  Enter the wide crack above and pull through blocks up and left to a ramp.  Traverse back right to the final steeper slot/crack past two points of ancient hardware (2022) that are not necessary (tons of pro).  One last short chimney section takes you to the sub-summit with slung blocks (2022).  Scramble to the true summit to locate a modern (2022) fixed rap at the northern edge. 

Descent

Two single 60m rope fixed (chain) raps to the ground.  The second rap is climbers left hidden below a roof. 

Essential Gear

Single to #2 with plenty of 60cm slings.  Route gets sun in the morning.