Seventh Sojourn, 5.9, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

The Seventh Sojourn is the easiest published route on the Watchtower in Pinnacle Valley which is located in the north Sandias.  The Watchtower is not a common objective for the area despite being home to the best rock quality in this small range.  It’s lack of popularity is no doubt due to the minimal amount of moderate climbing to be found.  It is home to only four published routes in the local guide:  Seventh Sojourn, 5.9, Excalibur, 5.10d, Cry for Merlin, 5.12b and Alchemy, 5.11a.  MP.com has an additional three routes listed:  Crybaby, 5.12+, Sword in the Stone, 5.12 and Watchman’s Secret, 5.12a.  I can’t emphasize enough how much better the quality of rock is on this southwest facing wall compared to the average Sandia climbing face.

Park at the last switchback before driving up to the communication towers.  Hike west and turn north on the crest trail.  As beforementioned, this is not a common objective and you will not find a climber’s trail as of 2023.  However, if you plug in the Watchtower coordinates that are provided and hop over the main crest when due east of those coordinates, the descent down to the top of the wall is easy going through spacious forest lasting no longer than 15 minutes.  Once you get to the summit of the Watchman, meander through large blocks to a fixed line skiers left fixed by pitons (2023).  Rap this line down to a fixed chain rap (atop Watchman’s Secret).  Make three 70m single rope raps to the ground off of fixed rap chains.  Sojourn starts about 100’ climbers left, down the hill.

Route Descripton

1^st/2^nd Pitches- 175’-5.9/ These first two pitches easily combine for decent moderate climbing by Sandia standards.  Start up the blocky terrain directly below an obvious right facing flake corner high above at the start of the 2^nd pitch.  Clip an extended sling on a fixed rap on a ledge atop the first pitch. The first pitch is rated 5.7.  Then traverse down and right via a few exposed but positive moves at the grade (5.9 crux) and start climbing to gain the base of the obvious flake corner above.  Once in the corner, place gear at will to the top and another fixed chain rap.  The great looking left facing dihedral of Excalibur is to your right.

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.7/ Local guidebook references 5.8, MP.com says 5.7-5.8.  I would lean on the lower grade.  Move left below a blunt arete and climb an easy weakness up as it trends back right.  Not much memorable about this pitch, if proper extension, you can easily combine these last two pitches.  Plenty of gear options lead to a gear belay on a comfortable ledge directly below a wide and chossy finish.

4^th Pitch- 100’-5.8/ Climb up to the wide crack and stem and pull through the delicate blocks.  A #3 protects well when exposed.  At the top, you can meander back right and up to where you no doubt left your packs.  Decent sized dead tree to sling for the belay.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Hike back up to the crest trail.

Essential Gear

70m rope preferable for the rap in.  MP.com has a user discussing that you "better bring 15 small cams".  I have no idea where that came from unless that user was just not competent leading at the grade and defines #.4 to #1 as small cams.  The route climbs well with a single from #.2 to #3 plus a small set of wires and/or a few off-set cams.  A dozen of shoulder length slings will assist with combining pitches.