Panoramic view on the Chablais from Mont Chauffé
The wild peak of the Mont Chauffe is in the backfront of the "trilogy of the Chablais" (Cornettes de Bise, Dent d'Oche and Mont de Grange). However he presents the highest limestone north face (400 m) of the group. The south face rises in steps and is easier to climb. Single Edelweiss growing place of the Chablais. Few visited. Amazing view from the summit over the precipices of the north face.
The Mont Chauffé is a long crest which spreads from SW to NE over 3 km. In the years 1940, the N face was a challenging climb. Today most of the routes of the N face are seldom climbed : the interest for a slippery , cold face with loose rocks and grass steps has decreased. The modern climbing routes are now the traverse and on the south face.(Grande and Petite Raille).
Getting There-Nearest airport : Geneve-Cointrin (85 km).
-Nearest station : Thonon (45 km)
-From Thonon take the road N 202 and after 13 km at the left the road D 22 to Abondance.
-From Abondance, take the little road to Le Mont. Beautiful old typical chalets of the Val d'Abondance. At the first turn go to the right to the hamlet "Le Sauvage" and park here.
Routes overview1) Normal route : S face, couloir de Ferraillon route, easy
Begin to climb the large gully on the left. Climbing up over the rubbles of this "Couloir de Ferraillon" is toilsome. The last 100 m are a little harder (level II-). Return by the same way or by the Chalets de la Raille.
2) S face of the crest (Cier-Chassagne route) : D, Max IV +
3) W crest : AD 4h
4) N face of the Little Chauffé : TD, very exposed
5) N face of the Saut du Chien : AD 2 h
6) N face, A.N. route : D sup, 4 h
7) N face, Néplaz route (first N face route) : TD inf, 6 h (not done today)
8) N face, Blanc route : D sup, 4 h (rarely climbed today)
9) N face, Bartholomé route to Pointe Mariette : TD, 8 h, the most beautiful route in the north face
10) E face, Chevenne route : AD, 3 h, interesting winter route
11) ESE crest, route of the Raille, Chevenne couloir : easy, 2h30, second easiest route
12) Ridges of the Mont Chauffé : funny tightrope climbing on the crest
Red TapeNo permits. Parking inlimited in Le Sauvage.
Sight from the summitFantastic view over the whole Val d'Abondance due to the central position of this summit. Incredible contrast between the near rocks and rock walls of the north face and the green peaceful meadows of the valley strewed with chalets.
Northways : Dent d'Oche, Dents de Darbon, Pointe de Benevent and the near and dominant Cornettes de Bise.
Southways : Dents du Midi, Mont de Grange, Mont Blanc range.
When To ClimbFrom may to october. The normal route is quickly snowfree.
CampingCamping in Abondance (Abondance is the principal village of the valley) 3 km from le Sauvage.
Mountain Conditions- Refuge d'Ubine 33 4 50 73 12 98.
- Abondance (33) 04 50 73 02 90
e-mail : [email protected]
HistoryFirst ascent of the north face : G. and R. Neplaz with L. Sabatier(1941). First TD route mastered in the Chablais.
Pointe Mariette at the east of the principal point : G. and R. Bartholome (1965.08.16)